Seems I can't catch a break. LOL I picked up a new damper BB style AND assumed they were the same diameter. Nope. Mine is 7.50 and the one I picked up 6 3/4. How will this affect the charging system? I'm using a 200 alt amp fyi.

Secondly and probably most important. CAN YOU DRILL into the damper?! Clearly on the damper is says not to as it's zero balanced so why in gods name are there 3 holes across the damper that clearly look as if they can be drilled because on the backside of it it's 3/8's bored out. If I can will it affect the harmonics as I screwed up my orginal damper w/ the existing holes off center. My only 2 options at this point is drill out the original damper w/ the 3 holes that came pre-started OR 2 use the new smaller damper and find a smaller belt.

More than likely I'll have a brand new ATI damper w/ BB hub for sale. Pics below and thanks for ANY info you can give me! Silas

 

Silas:

I removed my pulley and spacer from my motor and took some pictures in order to help clarify what needs to be done.

The aluminum spacer was machined down to a thickness of 1.100" (yours may be slightly different and you should check it by trial and error as it is machined. Additionally, the back side of the aluminum spacer was turned down to 2.050" so it will fit into the front side of the balancer hub. One of the 3 spacer mounting holes must also be elongated to match the bolt pattern of the ATI hub. By the way, my balancer also measures 6.750" as well.





I then purchased 3/8" x 2.500" grade 8 bolts and washers to mount the blower pulley and spacer to the ATI balancer assembly and used red Loc-tite on the threads. This was what Procharger told me was necessary to do in order to make the F1-A work on an F-body LT-1.





You definately DO NOT want to drill the ATI balancer or hub as to will be voiding their warranty and affecting the integrity of of the parts. I hope this helps.

 

Well for those of you wondering as to why I just don't use the newer hub. Mine is totally different in diameter etc. BB crank snout. I mucked it up good w/ the install. But I think I've found the solution. I'm going to get a new pulley spacer machined tomorrow (no holiday for Germans) and use the 3 pre existing holes I've already tapped in drilled into the original damper. I'll make sure the spacer is made/centered 1st before I have him drill out the 3 holes vs what I did. HOPEFULLY it doesn't mess w/ the harmonics since technically the hole is drilled ever so slightly off by a thousandths. For added strength I'll have him drill 3 extra holes on the crank pulley and spacer and they'll be used off the 5/16the holes from the remaining 6 in place. Did that make any sense? Thoughts?

Here is my hub and wasn't even worth the effort trying to remove.

 

Thanks Boosted for the pics! I've already ordered 3" 3/8 studs but they won't be here for another 3 weeks due to back order from Summit. I've got a chunk of T6 aluminum that will be mic'd at the CNC shop tomorrow. Based on the original spacer pulley setup mine required no machining as it lined up perfect w/ a straight ruler. I will double check it again tonight though.

 

It's up for sale if anyone is in need of one.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=573485