I thought a traditional intercooler wasn't necessary with rear mounts because of the heat transfer associated with the LONG compressor discharge pipe.

 

That's what they tell you, but I would like to see some IAT numbers. I wouldnt go over 8psi w/o the intercooler unless I knew the IATs were low or I had meth.

 

IAT.... I was thinking the same thing. What is 'necessary' is going to be a relative term. I heard also that alcohol is recommended in certain apps for the rear mount setups which would contradict my previous statement....This would then also suggest a heat exchanger would be beneficial as well.

 

STS runs a FMIC with their kit for the Twin Turbo Corvette, so there's something to be said for that.

I just talked to the Dyno shop here in San Diego, they have experience with the LT1’s. Since they are kinda pricey and I don’t want to do this several times, I think I’m going to go ahead and up the boost. (We all know it’s an addiction, picture a razor and a punch of wastegates on a table) They said if I wanted to go to a .6 bar spring, they would take enough timing out so it won't detonate. I know that throwing boost at the problem is not the answer…..but.

Besides, my neighbor has a 2003 svt and he’s changing the pulley. So it’s that Joneses thing.

 

Upping the boost isn't going to fix your AFR. You have a built motor, why not get the fuel set up the way it should be before throwing more boost at it? Get the fuel issue fixed, THEN look into adding more boost. The people with the most problems in boosted applications are the people who are the most impatient.

If you did nothing else but get that AFR to 11.5:1, you wouldn't have a problem smashing your neighbors Cobra

 

Thanks for the input.

What I should probably do is check all the plugs, re-torque the exhaust manifolds. Have the car dyno-tuned, then hook up the methanol injection that’s gathering dust in the garage.

I’m waffling at the moment.

 

going to agree with everyone else in here. Tuning is what makes and breaks cars, make sure yours done right. After a new tune you will probably make another 25-40hp. Dont worry about more boost, you ll find plently more power.

 

Change the motor oil too..My car was pig rich for a while and saw some traces of fuel in the oil...not too un-common.

 

Just got the car back from The Dyno Shop in Santee. Thanks to Derrick and Mark.
I checked the plugs, (they confirmed the car was running rich) and re-torqued the manifolds, (several bolts were loose). I’m going to clean the air filter and change the oil tomorrow. I did decide to go for the .6 bar spring, and they confirmed the car has about 9 lbs of boost.

I watched them tune it on the dyno. They made runs a low, medium, high loads and WOT, then updated the tables accordingly. The whole process took about 4 hours and the car runs great. 462 RWHP and 440 ft-lbs of Torque. Some time next month I’ll hook up the methanol kit. That should put me over 500 easy.

I’m a believer now. There’s no substitute for a good tune.

Thanks everyone.

Dyno Shop Run

 

Nice!

 

Good stuff

In looking at the Dyno Dynamics web site they list their dyno's as an eddy current dyno (hell you can tell their not inertial as there's no big *** drum like a dynojet) so if you've really got a hard on for a bigger power number I'd recommend finding a dynojet but as far as tuning goes an eddy current dyno is the way to go.

And be careful...>Boost is addictive...
Started with 7#'s and went all the way up to 19 before getting out and going old school.

Good luck,
Uncle Marc