do i need to get rid of my pvc valve?
Your are pressurizing the crankcase when in boost, but the PCV valve is a one-way valve...just make sure it is in good condition. A problem that most boosted engines encounter is that they create moderate amounts of blow-by when in boost and unless there is some sort of evacuation system on the motor, it present some problems...mostly oil leaks. Most people have found that just installing a breather on a valve cover isn't addequate and will cause an oily mess under the hood. Search this section for different solutions people have come up with.
Your are pressurizing the crankcase when in boost, but the PCV valve is a one-way valve...just make sure it is in good condition. A problem that most boosted engines encounter is that they create moderate amounts of blow-by when in boost and unless there is some sort of evacuation system on the motor, it present some problems...mostly oil leaks. Most people have found that just installing a breather on a valve cover isn't addequate and will cause an oily mess under the hood. Search this section for different solutions people have come up with.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=475878
Good timing. Take a look at the thread I just resurrected:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=475878
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=475878
What will probably do is leave the driver's-side PCV system stock, and then run a line from the passenger-side valve cover through an oil separator, and to the suck side of my turbo. The driver's side will handle the vacuum and cruising speeds, while the passenger-side will do it's job as the boost builds.
Check out GZmotorsports web site. They have some good alternatives for mount and install of vac pumps. Not many options for an LT1. So, that's what I'm doing (V103 pump). I decided to do this, and, it is more invloved than I thought with running a D1 on a 383 LT1. But, now I am 80% there. Had to go with a crank drive and move the rad forward for space on the right side (D1 is on the left). The vac pump requires a modified oil circuit to lube the vanes for the street. So, I have modified alot, but, much of this idea is from the GZMS web site. Also, you can only pull about 10 to 12 Hg on a wet sump system (according to GZMS). So a different Vac regulator was required (inventing that too). Anyway, I got some time to do this. We will see what happens this spring. Really helps to have tools. B. (97ss 383 - D1)
Although this is not an inexpensive method to keep the crankcase free of blow-by, it certainly appears to be one of the best. I've run a vacuum pump on other motors and found it to do a fantastic job, but have not tried one on my LT-1 because of the lack of space, especially with an F1-A mounted on the driver's side of the motor. Glad to here you've had some success so far. Any pictures and/or additional information would be great. Keep us updated.
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