To compare a stock glass jaw bottom end to a fully forged bottom end is apple to oranges. I would trust the engine builder. Why would he want you to go out there and blow up that motor. I know I wouldnt if I built your motor that my name on that!!

If you have forged pistons, rods, and a steel crank that motor will be fine. Its all in the Tune, Fuel, and keeping the motor out of detonation. 6-8lbs of boost isnt that much. I wouldnt even bother with 4-6lbs you will not be happy with the money you spent on this set up. That would be like running a 50-75 shot and wondering why the car still felt slow....

Why run a huge dish in the pistons when you can run a larger CC head. I would rather have a thicker piston and more head volume. What is the CC of the pistons now? instead of spending money on building the bottom, why not spend the port money you were going to use on the stock heads on a set of Trick flow heads or something similar. They are on here used all the time for around 1200 bucks or less. That would lower the compression and you would be able to grow with the parts. 550-600rwhp should not be that big of an issue with the parts you have already. I just wouldn't rev it to moon to keep the crank from walking around in there!

just my opinion

Steve

Ps I have been running my aeromotive fuel regulator for over 6 years now.

 

Whats a stock crank good to WHP. Would a stock crank with forged H-beams and low com pistons do.
Does arp main studs make a 2 bolt good for big numbers.
Can I get thicker Head gaskets
I have a couple options


Sell my short block and start over
Pay big bucks to swap out pistons then put studs in my 2 bolt
stock crank with forged rods and L/C pistons maybe splayed caps
Hogg out my heads and put studs in my mains. Thicker head gasskets?
Find big heads and arp stud the mains.
Leave it and maybe blow it up

 

I'll put in my notes -

I have never seen a stock crank break other than snapping the snout off with a supercharger. That being said I usually see @ 500 rwhp being the number to switch with the lt1. I've seen 1000hp ls1 setups on stock cranks.

Main studs should be required for anything above stock - 2 bolt studs will get a good ways. I had some main cap chatter around 600rwhp 700tq. The bearings still looked good but there is spider webbing under the caps. Going 4 bolt to be sure this time. Don't know if you can just change to studs - may need to be line bored again.

Thicker head gaskets are always an option. On boost quench is not nearly as important. Stay close if you can, but you have more room.

I have had no problems from my aeromotive regulator - pray!

60# injectors will be struggling at stock fuel pressure and 600hp.

 

stephenpen, this is a lot to consider and do just for one season of running the car until you would be ready to build it how you need it to handle everything. Considering you are having a shop do the work, you should really think about just holding off until you can do what you want ("make big HP" reliably). If you are not spending twice for the labor, much could be saved right there.

Why not just enjoy driving the car as it is now safely, knowing that all your internals will be in the exact same shape they are now when you are ready to use some of them for your build?

Just my .02 cents.

 

You need to really re-think this one over. I personally would save up for another shortblock, and sell yours to re-coup some money. Do it right the first time, even if the car doesnt get the sc installed for another year or so.....

If you blow your motor due to too much boost, or it having a 2 bolt or whatever, it's only worth what the going rate for metal, and that's not alot.

You can ask Jim how much to build you a shortblock for boost with CR at around the 9 mark.

Is there any hurry?

 

What parts are currently in that motor?

 

Its a forged Eagle crank, eagle H-Beam rods, Mahle flat top forged piston. ARP bolts on the rods, not sure what bolts were used on 2 bolt mains.

I was thinking of installing
low comp pistons
balance the assembly
All new bearings
ARP hardware on 2 bolt mains.

I not looking for 700whp. I would very happy making an extra 150-200hp max.
If and when that time comes I'll put some splayed caps in and freshin everything up.
I want to get a new set of heads. My stockers are to restrictive.

 

Its a forged Eagle crank, eagle H-Beam rods, Mahle flat top forged piston. ARP bolts on the rods, not sure what bolts were used on 2 bolt mains.

I was thinking of installing
low comp pistons
balance the assembly
All new bearings
ARP hardware on 2 bolt mains.

What was the quote that was given to you to accomplish all the work in the list?

 

I have had some high and low quotes.

Alteast $2000 at OCS for 2-bolt ($3000 with splayed caps.) Thats if nothing comes up
$1000 at one place with me buying the pistons ($1000 more with splayed caps)

 

I don't know why the people in this thread think this thing is going to explode, it is not a stock short block! It Is fully forged steel short block. The only thing that is weak is the 2 bolt main caps. The two bolt main caps will allow the crank to move and defect causing a bearing failure in the mains eventually. How long will that be who knows

This motor was originally built to handle nitrous. Do you people honestly think the pistons, rods and crank, know that he isn't running nitrous??? All they care about is HP (Ie cylinder pressures) Is this an ideal perfect setup for a boosted motor NO, will it work Yes.

Enough of my soap box...

I just spoke to the person who built my motor about your combination. He suggested to purchase and larger cc head 65+ and to run a thicker gasket. Since you are only going to run around 550 rwhp the combination you have will last.

Those are good parts there is no reason to run out and get a huge dished piston because if you do that will limit your head choices later. If you ran a 65CC head that would lower your compression about a half point to .75 of a point depending on head gasket choice . So you would be a 10.5:1 or 10.25:1compression. correction* With the math using all the information below from a standard 11:1 383 motor, the compression should drop 1.25-1.5 points. so if you are at 11:1 now you would be at 9.75:1-9.5:1 after the head change. This is rough math but it should be pretty damn close!

I don't know all the measurements of that motor to figure it out to the number. I would need all of the following to do that:

Bore/Stroke
Cylinder Bore Size
Piston Stroke Length
Head Gasket Bore Diameter
Compressed Head Gasket Thickness
Combustion Chamber Volume In CCs
Piston Dome Volume In CCs
Piston Deck Clearance

So with the parts you have and the money spent on better heads you will have room to grow, all you have to do is bolt them on, and you will be able to make the power you want with the parts you already have. Bottom line trust what the person that built your motor has told. Apparently you trust his judgement or you wouldn't be using them

Or sell all your stuff and Buy Jerry's stuff he is an awesome guy with some great parts!!

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=712303

You could sell all your parts for around 1750-2000.00 then buy all his stuff and have everything to include a really nice set of heads for the same amount of money you wanted to spend to build only your short block..

My head hurts...
Steve

 

Steve - i agree with the post above. However, I am also fond of being on the safe side of everything. No need to get greedy and blow up a motor. Also, i know a lot of people running the older aeromotive regulators w/ no problems. Ive tried 3 in the past year and a half, and all have had failures within 3 months.

 

you see what u should of done is build a bigger stroker in the 1st place, that doesnt need NOS or boost.

we almost have the same post count, but u have been on here for close to 10 years more.

 

Just realized your on CCFBG, do it right the first time and get some good JE's Diamont etc.

Also depending on what power level your going for 60-72# will do nice. I run 60s and had no issue making almost 600rwhp, also easy to control on the factory pcm

Jay

 

is it really easy to control on the factory "atari", really?

not doubting you, just suprised.

 

60s are no problem at all.