DirtyDaveW

Well, as some of you know, I'd put a TH350 in my car recently and I'd fabricated an exhaust routing that was PERFECT. It went from Realquicks downpipe to a 3 bolt header collector type flange. Then, from the flange I'd routed the 3" under the Torque Converter, curving gracefully then turning rearward to intersect with the Borla cat back. I had GREAT ground clearance. Just like stock to tell the truth. Then, I went back to the six speed and that 'cavity' under the Flywheel is gone now. So, it's back to routing the 3" straight back from the downpipe, parallel to the transmission until the tailshaft where the pipe traverses under the driveshaft/Torque Arm to finally meet the Borla. It's that point where the Tranny crossmember bolts to the chassis that ground clearance is lost what with the 3" piple plus at least a 1/2" of wiggle room between the top of the pipe and the floorpan. I'm envisioning a couple of 'solutions'. Tell me if you've tried one or more...

• Flattening/Ovalizing the 3" pipe till it's about 1 inch in height
• Welding a section of 4" or 5" pipe onto the pipe at that point and then flattening/ovalizing THAT portion to just 1" in height, then going back to 3" somewhere rear of that tightest section
• Cutting a 1.5" pipe in half, down the length of it, welding 6" or 7" sheets of metal to the edges of the cut pipe to end up with a wide 'box' section that could be welded to the "post" down pipe and the 3" pipe past the cross member area.

Any of the above could be used to gain ground clearance but, especially since this is a turbo application, I don't want to restrict the exhaust gases any more than I have too.

Opinions? Suggestions?
Thanks,
Dave

Geoff Chadwick

Dave-

I had this same issue with my car and the PTK kit, but slightly worse as I couldn't actually go beneath the tailshaft (convertible means the transmission support is a giant X-brace). I recommend if you go oval, just use Dr gas piping if you can - they've got the transitions and everything already set to go (though expensive).

http://www.drgas.com/oval_tubing.htm

However, the 3" becomes a 2.25" tall oval, so you're not saving that much. You could also split the 3" downpipe to dual 2.5" pipes, which could oval to 1.75" tall each, saving you a bit more in exchange for some really silly exhaust piping.

If you oval it to 1" tall, you need an oval that's 7" wide. That's pretty extreme. Even at 1.5" tall you're still talking nearly 5" wide. You've got the log with the turbine on the passenger side. Is A/C still in the car?

I know it's extreme, but what about modifying the driver's side log to pull the turbo forward slightly so the downpipe could bend down and sneak in front of the steering rack and then hop under the swaybar and back (or through where A/C was if it's been deleted).

DirtyDaveW

Great info Geoff Thanks for the links. That site does show what I'm after though as you mention, it's pricey. On the redirect of the downpipe, that's an interesting thought. I'll have a look at things when I get back. I've been wondering if I could reroute the hotside to put the turbo in the cavity where the CAI had been(currently, it's between the motor and the radiator but on the drivers side). If I could do that relocation, I could perhaps more easily pass the down pipe onto the other side of the car. I took the A/C out and have the delete pulley on the car now.
Thanks again!
Dave

RealQuick

The simplest, most cost effective solution.... put the auto back in

DirtyDaveW

Hahaha... yeah. In a way.. but... I'm getting a transbrake installed, activating my LTCC Two step feature and restalling the TC to 3,800 first.