Im building a turbo motor finally. Only gonna spin it to 6200 and wanna run 10-15 PSI. They want 80 bucks to polish the stocker, so I figure one of these two have to be better than the stocker. Let me know what you think.

First is a scat.

Brand: SCAT Engine Components
Product Line: Scat Cast Crankshafts
Part Type: Crankshafts
Part Number: SCA-910526
Rear Main Seal Style: 1-piece
Engine Stroke (in): 3.480 in.
Crankshaft Material: Cast steel
Engine Balance: Internal
Lightened: No
Requires Narrow Bearings: No
Rod Bearings Included: No
Main Bearings Included: No
Cross-Drilled Mains: Yes
Rod Journal Diameter (in): 2.100 in.
Crankshaft Snout Style: Standard
Quantity: Sold individually.

Crankshaft, 1-Piece Seal, Internal Balance, Cast Steel, 3.480 in. Stroke, Chevy, 350, Each

Scat crankshafts combine strength, precision, and value.
These Scat cast crankshafts are perfect for mildly built street engines, or just to replace stock crankshafts that have seen better days. These Scat crankshafts are precision-ground and micro-polished to exacting tolerances.

Next is eagle.

Brand: Eagle Specialty Products
Product Line: Eagle Cast Steel Crankshafts
Part Type: Crankshafts
Part Number: ESP-103523480
Rear Main Seal Style: 1-piece
Engine Stroke (in): 3.480 in.
Crankshaft Material: Cast steel
Engine Balance: Internal
Lightened: No
Requires Narrow Bearings: No
Rod Bearings Included: No
Main Bearings Included: No
Cross-Drilled Mains: No
Rod Journal Diameter (in): 2.100 in.
Main Journal Diameter (in): 2.449 in.
Balancer Bolt Thread Size: 7/16-20 in.
Crankshaft Snout Style: Standard
Quantity: Sold individually.

Crankshaft, 1-Piece Seal, Internal Balance, Cast Steel, Standard Snout, Chevy, Small Block, Each

Cranks you can rely on and afford.
If you need a crankshaft that's dependable, but don't want to empty your bank account, Eagle Specialty Products has the solution. These cast steel crankshafts for Chevy feature .092 radii on rod, main journals, rear seal, and snout for increased strength. Crankshafts for Ford have .125 radii on all rod and main journals. Each crank is inspected for dimension, size, and stroke accuracy, has a journal finish of 6 R.A. or less, and has a target bobweight of +/- 2-percent for reduced balancing time.

Also really debating wether to splay the mains or not.

 

I don't think you can go wrong with either one.

I run an eagle 3.5" stroke - I wish I would have done 4 bolt caps but I am not too worried about my studded 2 bolt caps taking what I am going to throw at it. I am still thinking that rpms will be more of a danger than power.

 

I am going to stud them for sure. Im not going to rev to the moon 6-6200. Street car, with a few track times.

 

stock crank, 2 bolt splayed mains

 

Just for longevity, I chose the SCAT forged. I also used their splayed 4 bolt main caps and had my spare 2 bolt block converted to splayed 4 bolts. I've gone to the ARP studs for the mains/splayed caps. The machinist had to add two slugs of Mallory Metal ($$$) to balance the SCAT crank. I've read that this is common with some of the less expensive cranks, that being, they are pretty far off on as-delivered balance. I suppose that's how they keep the catalog price low. They offer cranks that need serious balancing efforts while the seemingly more expensive ones are pretty close and won't need the Mallory Metal. I think it would wash out the same, SCAT plus Mallory versus big name brand.

What is your HP goal? I'll be interested to see how your engine lives using that level of boost on a cast crank. I know the LS1's can handle that stuff pretty easy with a stock crank but I thought we LT1 faithful were limited to a safe threshold of 500hp at the crank on a 'cast steel' version. Kudos to you if it works. I've spent a lot of money for piece of mind. I hope it's all worth it!! Lol...

 

Looking for 500 hp on streets and turn the boost up for the track.

 

Does your stock crank need to be polished? If the journals look good and are round (measurements are needed) just re-use it.

Rich

 

This came outta a motor I got from a friend that ran it out of oil. Ill take it up there and see I guess.

 

I would vote eagle over SCAT... Also are youdoing pistons and everything? Why not step it up to a 383?

 

My eagle only needed metal taken off to balance, no expesive malory for me.

 

I went with SCAT, it wasn't too far out, but I also went forged & stroked. I did not go with the splayed caps, so that "peice of mind" is not there. I am getting ready to build my new shop and the first thing that I'll be doing in it is a teardown and a splayed conversion. If I were you I would definately do the cap conversion so that you can sleep at night!

 

How much extra machine work to do the 383?

 

Depends on the rods - I will assume some beefy h beams. Worst case they have to grind on the pan rail a little bit to get it to clear. Not much money.

May have issues in the oil pan too though.

 

The extra machine work isnt much. Trying to find someone to splay the mains is another thing. No one around here unless I wanna travel 250 miles wants to do it. I bet my mpt 70 would be on the small side for a 383

 

How far away are you from lincoln? Got our block done in lincoln....