Eventually (when money and a second vehicle allow) I want to go forced induction. Lately I've been leaning turbo over centrifugal and had a few questions.

How well can I make the stock 97 LT1 computer with an impedence converter work with a turbo setup, or should I just ditch that idea and go with FAST system or something of the like? I'd like to stick with the LT1 ECU if it will work.

Second, assuming I do a low compression 383, will the extra torque of the stroker make up for the lag associated with a single big turbo? I like the idea of twins, but which setup (single or twin) has a better track record on LT1 cars?

It seems like the choices in turbo kits are limited for LT1s. Would I be better off just piecing together a custom system, and would a turbo be worth the extra costs and headaches associated over centrifugal for an estimated 600 RWHP? Thanks for any input.

Oh, and is the Callies Dragon Slayer crank acceptable for this power range or should I step up to the Racemaster?

 

stock pcm with imp converter will be ok.

even with stock size motor there wont be any real lag with a single turbo (p76gts)

 

Single front mounts are the most popular style of turbo kit for a 4th gen camaro/firebird and pretty much every other kind of vehicle. Twins are cool, but not practical on a 4th gen. There are some very fast Pro Turbo kit cars out there (4th gen) and mustangs. The only draw back is the expense of the kits. Although you could order the hot side from them and fab up the rest yourself! I went the PTK route www.proturbokits.com and couldnt be happier. My car is almost done and I am VERY excited. I am shooting for 900+rwhp. The cranks you mentioned below are WAY overkill for 600hp but why not cause you probably wont stop at that. The 383 will require more turbo to make the power(more like an 88mm unit) whereas the 355 will spin higher rpms and make awesome power with a smaller 76mm unit. The 355 seems to be the ticket lately. Look at the supra guys, they are in the nines, many and are not utilizing huge ci displacement engines, also singe turbo instead of twins!! Go turbo, everyone has a blower BORING! Then you can adjust your boost at the stoplight and show the blower jockeys a thing or two Thats gonna **** some people of.ha. Happy holidays. Let us know.

 

Thanks for the input. I think the reason I wanted to go with those cranks is because I heard they have a small occurrence of the snout breaking, but that's when I was going blower with 18 PSI. 600RWHP would be a start like you said of course, but what would you say is the HP limit of the Dragon Slayer?

I know I have a lot of questions, but I'm not too familiar with the technicalities of how turbos work. I know you can control boost from in the car, but how does that really work? It has something to do with the blowoff valve doesn't it? Basically, how does boost control work? I appreciate you all helping me learn this better.

 

Boost is controlled by the wastegate. In a nutshell, the wastegate is adjusted (electronically or via a manual controller) so that when a certain boost pressure is reached in the engine, the wastegate starts to open and bypass exhaust gases around the turbine (hot side of the turbo), therefore limiting the ability of the turbo to create more boost.

 

a 76mm turbo would be fine on a 383, 88mm will work fine too.

btw i have a new 88mm turbo for sale and a custom ic too

brook

 

5.0This, thank you for the explanation. Good nutshell description. So I'm guessing the wastegate goes after the turbo and the BOV goes before the intake, but does it go before or after the throttle body?

And Brook, you are always trying to make a sale aren't you? If I had the money, I'd probably start the project now, but need a house and a garage for the project first. LOL.

 

A wastegate is linked to the up pipe (coming into the turbine) and the downpipe (coming out of the turbine).. this is how it can bypass exhaust gases around the turbine. A blowoff valve goes on the intake piping, typically within a couple of feet of the throttle body. All it does is when the throttle blades suddenly close when you're under boost, it opens to relieve the boost pressure that will build up behind the throttle blades.

 

THe 76mm turbo would be fine if you dont mind not optimizing your setup. I dont know about you but I want the most out of my setup and on a 383 the 76 just doesnt move the air the 88 will. Sorry I will have to disagree!

 

Dyno numbers says it does

 

5.0This, what dyno numbers are you referring to? I just switched from 383 cid down to 363 because it will better match my 76GTS based on results from someone else's dyno test. Do you have another dyno test that states otherwise?

Mike

 

I just remember Jose posting some numbers from the same car, one set with a 76GTS and the other with an 88. I dont recall there being much difference at all. Although that may have been a 355. Regardless, my point is that they will make similar amounts of power.

 

I've seen a dyno test between T-76 and T-88 on a 355, and another teste between 355 and 383 on a T-76. But, never a dyno test between T-76 and T-88 on a 383. Permeations and commutations. . . jeez! But, you're right, never more than about 20 rwhp difference.

 

For those of you that peiced together a PTK kit (bought hotside and fabbed intake side) where did you buy your turbos and accessories? what did you pay on average?