I have started to make up my mind in where I wanna go with the car. It is still gonna be my daily driver. I am looking at the PTK kits. I was looking at pistons and what not. Do I have to replace the Pistons, Crank and rods or would I be good on just boosting with some lower compresion pistons? And If I did that how much would you estimate it would cost to buy the pistons and have the installed? You guys are awesome. Thanks.

 

Just pistons will be fine depending on what power levels you want. If you're going to try to make more than around 500 RWHP with any hope of keeping the engine together for awhile I'd recommend a forged bottom end. For 500 RWHP or less stock crank and rods with good pistons should be good but still not as dependable as forged pieces. RPM will also play a role in engine life, if you're not going to spin it past around 6000 the rods and crank will live longer as well. Tuning is very important on blown engines, I would bet that more boosted applications break because of detonation than any other reason. Even the best shortblock in the world is going to break when detonation becomes a problem, so make sure you get some good tuning and some form of charge cooling is also very beneficial.

 

Yeah, when ever I get the funds to take this on, I am going Air to Air.

 

I have a thought about detonation.
http://www.coolingmist.com/categorie...n=set&res=1024
I just found this company last night. I believe that they supply the Methanol Injection Kits for the www.ststurbo.com Upgrade.
These seem pretty damn cool, you can run 100% alcohol, or 100% water... they say a 50/50 mix is the best mix of reducing intake manifold temp's and eliminating detonation, AND getting more fuel into the engine (Methanol is fuel too hehe) and guess what.. that blue stuff you put in your windshield wiper resivoir is 50/50 alchy/water and is cheap and safe to run in the injection kits. I read that you run thru about a gallon of water/alchy to a tank of gas. and its got neat options like 2 stage systems, switches, an LED to tell if the system is clogged/empty or flowing. It also has a fail safe option where when the resivoir gets sucked empty, the pump turns off; so it doesn't burn up itself. You dont have to modify your tune, if you dont want it to be a requirement for running the engine. Or if you have it dyno tuned to need the water/alchy injection. Then you better make sure you keep that resivoir filled up.

Also from what I read, their is only one lil difference in the turbo and naturally aspirated kits, and its just a vacuum/boost switch that gets changed if you decided to boost your engine later on.

On Boosted cars it can yield up to like 20hp. On a naturally aspirated engine, it may only give 2 or 3 hp with out tuning, for $270 bux or so for the fatty dual stage N/A kit; and $500 for the fatty dual stage turbo kit with gauges.... I dont think that is bad at all, because you can reduce your intake temp so much, and not have to worry about detonating down the track, or down the street for those of us who still like to terrorize the neighbors. From what I take from it... That means that you can run higher compression, on both Forced Induction, and Naturally Aspirated engines.

Ideas,
-Tony


P.S. I have no experience with the systems, I have gathered all this from reading. If anyone has real world experience with the Water Injection systems, Chime in! I'd love to hear about them. Who wouldn't? (and yes, it took lots and lots of reading before I could believe people were safely and purposly spraying water into their intake manifolds lol)