Recently added two gallons of Toluene to about nine gallons of 93 octane. I see white smoke from the exhaust but it is inconsistent. Sometimes it's constant at idle, other times it is only a puff after I've revved it but won't smoke at all at idle. I checked my antifreeze level and it's about 3 inches from the top of the radiator when cold (after sitting a week). Problem is, since it was dyno tuned back in November.....I can't remember if I've checked the level since then or what it looked like when I did (other than this last time I'm speaking of). The Toluene is Sherwin Williams and it has not helped the knock retard. In fact, it seems I have more KR with the Toluene so perhaps it's not first run. I can drive it hard and not see any white smoke in the rear view even on a nice day. I also added some Marvel Mysery Oil (about 4 ounces) and a tid bit of "dry gas" ......could that cause white smoke as well? I added the dry gas (gasline antifreeze) because the car had sat most of the winter with the same 1/4 tank of gas in (condensation in the tank). Only about 4 ounces of the dry gas too.

Here's what worries me though: I've noticed a weird smell ever since I got the car back from the dyno tuner in November.....not sure how to describe it, I just assumed it was a rich running smell since he wound up disabling my closed loop and tuning me a little rich in open loop. I'm wondering if the tuner blew a head gasket (had my car for three months and it saw a lot of dyno pulls, had lots of weird problems that were hard to track down) ......and neither he nor I noticed the blown gasket (or cracked head or block) because of dismissing the tailpipe smoke being due to the cold weather. I really don't know if it smoked when I was running straight 93 octane ....now the guessing game begins. I guess the first step is to top off the coolant and see if it goes down any. Also, run this tank out and start over with fresh 93 . I am so sick and tired of not being able to enjoy my car.

 

Do you even have any gas in the tank with everything else?

I would do like you said and run the tank out and just run 93. Top off coolant and keep a check on it.

 

I think I've overreacted and the car is fine (I think). The reason my radiator seemed low is that it had sat for a week (3 ~ 4 inches below the cap). I didn't top it off because I now think it's actually full now that I've observed the dipstick in the overflow. I drove it for a bit yesterday and parked it. Checked the fluid level after a couple of hours and it was right up to the cap. It seems the white smoke is happening less and less so it must have been the Toluene and MMO cleaning out carbon. I drove it out to Hawk's Nest Park yesterday and ran it pretty hard on the curvy mountain roads without incident. It is running better and better ....I think it's just been sitting too much and there was water left in the gas tank from condesation. I can't believe how hard this car pulls at interstate speeds, 5th gear feels just as mean as 3rd...you can easily forget you're in 5th and think you're in 3rd if you're not paying attention when cruising around and listening to music or something ....she's got some bottom end . Last week I hit 145 MPH in 5th gear very quickly at maybe 1/2 throttle and 2 PSI or so ....it was about 4:00 AM and no one coming or going but I had no intention of going that fast.....I was watching the tach and scanmaster and before I know it I look over and, "145 MPH" and climbing fast

I drained out the entire gas tank with my trip to Hawk's Nest yesterday and have already started over with a 1/2 tank of 93 .....now a few more checks on the coolant level and oil condition, an oil change, purchase some race gas, and a couple more 1/2 tanks of 93 to run through ......and I'll see KV Dragway Park sometime in April or May

 

Hey CANBAUFO,do you mind me asking how did you make that RWHP what do you have done ? i have my car at the shop right now and there doing the 6 psi kit i have a soild intake tube,9 inch element,it has MAC' headers OR pipe .cutout,Polished/ported heads stage 2 2.00 int/1.57 exh vlave's.1.5 comp roller rockes,they even port matched the headers/intake...plus TB bi pass,grantelli MAF,i think there going to use 30 or 36 lb injectors and get rid of the FMU and do a complete dyno tune do you think i will see the same results or not even close to you thanks alot

 

I have seen that stuff cause white smoke. Its usually for the first 5-10 minutes

 

I am still seeing the smoke even after running the tank out and running straight 93 ....I guess there's still some residual and loosening of carbon. The antifreeze level looks consistent, but a tad low. In other words, it hasn't gotten any lower but it was a little low to start with when I observed this. It's just about two inches below "full cold" on the overflow dipstick. How low is that? It's about four inches from the top of the radiator when stone cold. If it was antifreeze leaking into the combustion chamber......wouldn't I see it pretty much all the time (the white smoke)? It's only when I rev it.....that makes me think, carbon.

GEES97TA .......I think you will see similar results or better. Probably less low end torque and as much or more mid range and top end since you have some good heads. The 6PSI kit isn't going to make 6 PSI with your setup though ...more like 4.5 or so. The heads and headers and everything being matched up will increase flow enough to drop the boost reading. That will be good for your pistons so you can either, pulley up some and get more boost, or leave it where it is and play it safe (probably the better choice). Mine is pullied up to 8 PSI however, my power peak occurs at 5600 RPM at 6.8 PSI. At higher RPM's I get more boost but less horsepower. My guess is it is due to restriction in my stock heads, TB, cam, etc. Mine is stock with 1.6 RR's, Hooker LT's, 9-inch filter and solid intake, ASP 6.45 inch crank blower pulley, 42# injectors and no FMU, !cat, Borla catback with E-valve (electronic muffler bypass that makes minimal power difference.....10 lbs of low RPM torque and ~5 HP and TQ at the higher end on current tuning). E-valve actually caused me to lose maximum tuneable power because the tuner had to set it up rich to compensate for when the E-valve is open). It actaully made 1 more HP than in my sig on one pass with the valve closed on a leaner tune (which would have been too lean for when it's open).

Definitely go with the 36# injectors over the 30's if you want to go sans FMU......I don't think 30's will be enough since you have good heads....the duty cycle would be close to maxed out if not totally maxed out. Insist on conservative timing and slightly rich fuel if you want your motor to live. It will run leaner on the street than it does on the dyno so it needs to be tuned a little rich to compensate ........leaner is meaner but it won't last long if it's any leaner than 12.5:1 on the dyno. Another tip to be on the safe side .....have it tuned with your BTM (if you have one) set at zero so you are not relying on it and it won't interfere with tuning. Then run it at 1 degree per pound for most of your driving to be safe.

 

Thanks so much fot the info,that was some great advice i will ask the tunners those ?'s.I think and hope they do it right so the motor lives a long time .I'm not going to race it ever weekend but i will drive it to some events and show it alot.Here is there web sit check it outsee what you think of them WWW.CARTEK.NET they are doing the complete job from heads to bolt up to tunning and wide band dynoing.....I hpe i get at least close to your numbers ...thanks alot again

 

I don't have any personal experience with them or know anyone who does but I've only heard good things about them here, just casual comments and what not. At least they appear to specialize in TPI and LT1/LS1 motors. I've seen people refer to them as "the TPI/LT1 tuning Gods of the East Coast" .....so hopefully they're good

I had heard nothing but the best about my tuner but he wound up having a bit of a learning experience on my car (had it for three months just to dyno tune it ....wound up having to troubleshoot/fix some things along the way though). It was a miserable process of elimination and guessing and wound up costing me a big chunk of money and he was 350 miles away. I made one trip to pick it up and it turned out to not really be ready due to a freak thing.....that really sucked....it wasn't his fault though. He did very good work overall and was fair with the bill in the end though. I think the problem is, we learn so much about our cars and expect tuners to know even more....yet some of them tune all kinds of cars (like my tuner did) and they have a lot of stuff to keep track of in their heads....I don't know how they do it. Only reason I'm citing that as an example is they way Cartek may be thinking the 30's are enough for you........I think that's way too risky, they could be confused because of mixing up your scenario with another similar one where the 30's really were enough. All I'm saying is it helps to go into it with as much knowledge/info as possible because the tuners can forget or mix up processes from one computer/car to another. Another example could be fuel pressure, don't let them adjust fuel pressure via adjustable regulator to tune fuel. The OBD1 PCM will relearn it and adjust pulsewidth and injector on time to compensate for the extra or missing fuel pressure. Fuel tuning needs to be done in the PE vs RPM table. That's the kind of thing they could forget....that's all. Good luck and definitely have some better luck than I did....lol.

 

30# injectors are too small. If you're going to dump the FMU, go Lucas 42#.

 

Thanks guys, i will mention it to them about the injectors being to small. I know they did put an inline fuel pump in also. Plus all he tell's me is that he changes everthing in my computer OBDII so i hope it comes out right also and you think your car was there a long time ,Mine is still there since Aug 11 th so i know he's busy as hell..but gee's i thought it would be done by now i have a couple friends had some new vette's done there and they run great so i guess i have to see i just want some real decent RWHP so i hoping for the best Thanks alot again

 

I work for Dunocom Industries. We are the actual manufacturer for all the Dyno equipment. These machines seem great yes. But unfortunately they turn your vehicle Into a money pit. Nobody is properly trained on how to use the Dynos and every customer calls with questions on how to use and a bunch of what-ifs are asked. I haven't seen a customer get a straight answer in the 5 years I've worked there. Do yourself a favor and don't ever use a Dyno again. They are a complete joke

 

“Dunocom Industries”….. that's funny.

So is the rest of your post. You can’t be serious.

A bit of checking = fake info - and turns out "Ashleym" is the complete joke ! ! ! ! !

LOL