Bone Daddy

I've heard so many conflicting stories it's wierd. I've heard that on a stock LT1, an S-trim or any other "smaller" turbo set-up, (6psi) will eat up the bottem end before long. (average of 35k) But at the same time I've heard that you can make a good daily driver with a small sized turbo and the right ECM tune, injectors, etc. and ride the horse till she drops at around 150k+ like normal.

So who is correct?

simple

its all in the tune from what i have read
but the wear and tear will be more substantial with a power adder so the life of the bottom end is dramatically reduced

from everything i have gathered

1st and goal

Everyone joins the rebuild club sooner or later

Do not put a blower on your car unless you're prepared to do a rebuild when the time comes.

They get expensive and easily turn from daily drivers into race cars pretty easily (didn't say cheap, said easy). How do I know????, well I bought the LS-1 for a reason aka new daily driver

My Z lasted 16, 000 miles after I installed my old P600B, the car had 54K on it and I had ditched the FMU and had it tuned on the dyno. Destruction pics on on my web page.

Good luck and remember "Boost is addictive"

Marc

Geoff Chadwick

No matter what you do, longevity is decreased from higher internal forces. A bad tune or detonation is much more deadly - and that will determine it. Good tune might mean 30k (depends on the condition of your engine as it is now) or maybe 500miles... Either way if you're going to go F/I, start saving for a rebuild.

IDOXLR8

In a seriousness you need to do a search since this question is asked all the time.


IMO don't go forced induction unless you have money set aside for a rebuild.

Tuning , running good gas and monitoring knock is the key to get any form of longetivity out of your stock shortblock. Eventually failure will occur though.

1st and goal

One more thing to consider, blowers are harder on drivetrain parts as well.

I blew up my motor three days after spending $3,300 on rebuilding the tranny and installing a Vigilante t/c.

As far as building something to run 10's, I stopped counting at $8k

Marc

Bone Daddy

Thanks all for the responses (except the one "search!" comment) I did search but each thread is different in it's own way, and I found some conflictions in the search results.

Well, I am in the rebuild club already, but unfort. I am way past the short block already, and while I did do some beefing "down there" Not enough to warrant the extra wear on the engine in my opinion.

I still can't believe that my friends DSM, a 6 banger no less, is a DD with 8-12psi and he has about 78,000 on the motor after install. I started thinking this (running a turbo) at lunch yesterday when he took me for my first AWD turbo launch, the sound of the shifts is almost orgasmic.

Oh well, as long as the motor is in my garage waiting for an install, I could always beef up the bottom alot more, but now I think it might be better to get an LT4 kit later on if the car isn't fast enough. But I won't get that turbo sound. Maybe I can pay Xride to ride shotgun and make shooosh-whew! sounds as I shift.




Oh well, not like I have time right now to do anything anyway, I havent even fixed my car's fuel sender yet, and I bought one almost a week ago. Women and Marriage are t3h suck!


[edit]

Since the moter is "refreshed" (new pistons/crank/bearings/rings etc.) anyone think I would be fine for a long time? Hmm, A/My th-350 is supposedlty good for 700hp stock, so that might be another consideration, not to mention my stock rear end.. Oh, well crap.. Ideas?

Geoff Chadwick

DSM (eclipse/talon/laser= I4 turbo) (3000gt Vr4 = v6 Twin turbo)

The 3000gt's are piggy, comfy, and fast.

The Eclipse/Talon/Laser is also a killer platform, but sadly at 350-400hp they fly, but the driveline breaks at that point. The car was never meant to handle that much. The guys pushing 500+flywheel go through transfer cases on a monthly basis.

Auto's are better on the rear then a manual. If you use street tires and not drag radials or slicks, you should be alright. Also dont try to launch the **** out of it

I'd reccomend against the Lt4 kit. It's decent, but for the price you can now get a set of Trick flow heads, which not only lower the compression, but flow better then the lt4's, and dont require a new manifold.

Also the sound of the shifting is dependant on the turbo and BOV setup. Some are horrible (Type XS RFL "Really friggin loud") vs like the Greddy Type S. Some just sound amazing. If you do a search for "Cars gone Wild" on your favorite peer to peer network there is a Mr2 in there that sounds beautiful. It's also a really nice drifter too

But imagine running up to that turbo DSM on the highway. He does a blow-off salute, and hears one coming back from a big v8. I bet he'd **** himself. (I know this from my DSM days and running up to a 5.0 mustang turbo) I just about pissed myself...

The weakest point I think on the stock engine is the high CR and the pistons. The rods are decent, and so is the crank. 600flywheel decent? Not really. But if you've freshened it up, perhaps starting with some better heads and a cam would make life a little more fun till you can afford a turbo kit and a beefy boost motor. Not to mention adding good heads now could be re-used later as well.

Bone Daddy

Yeah, looks like a turbo might not be in my future, at least for a little while. I could aways buy a dsm as a beater.

I wonder if I can just get a gear drive and I could "whoosh" every once in a while till I can get a stronger moter.

Seriously though, what kind of bottem end does it take for a SBC based turbo set-up? I assume an all forged rotating assembly and better lower compression heads? My current re-hashed heads are set-up as 9:2.1 (not stock) compression ratio. Other than those items, I cant really think of anything else.

Yeah, the lt4 kits are close in price range to the trick flow heads, and damn those are some sexy heads. I could just switch over my rockers and etc. to the new heads I assume? And I've always wondered, which flow better, the Vortech heads of the pre 94 engines, the stock LT1 heads, or the trick flow? I've heard conflicts on this topic too. Thanks again for the great posts guys.

-Bone

[edit]

Geoff, my friend's car is a red AWD Eclipse 3000 GTX.. I think. (i'm not so hot on my DSM information) I don't believe it came with a turbo. He did alot of hacking and fabrication to install the turbo, esp. the huge I/C in the front. But I know one thing, it opened my eyes and eleminated some pre-set notions I had on foreighn cars.

IDOXLR8

Okay You are correct this same exact question has never been asked.

I do not understand what is conflicting. Everyone will have their opinions on how much boost is safe. In reality though when a motor (stock shortblock) is not designed for a supercharger than how is boost going to be safe?

I have been around a few supercharged cars and to answer your question supercharging is not ideal for a stock shortblock. This is because you are forcing the engine to work harder. It takes work to turn a blower.

Good luck with your build and get ready to spend some money.

Bone Daddy

Wow, I don't believe I've ever been flamed in such a gentlemanly way before. I like it!

I was mostly speaking to Geoff, as my last post was geared towards him, kthxbye.

Geoff Chadwick

"AWD Eclipse 3000 GTX"

AWD Eclipse GSX (2L AWD Turbo)

3000 (As in a 3000gt)

I'm guessing it's an Eclipse GSX 4-banger. The valve cover says "DOHC 2000" on it.

If it is a GSX and AWD it came with a turbo. If it didnt come with a turbo, it's front wheel drive. They did make a turbo front wheel drive though. "Eclipse GST"

If it's AWD and he launched it at 6000rpm - that's a wonderful thing. They break axles doing that - but it's certainly fun. Downside is my car with the top down kept a GST with a rather nice turbo and supporting mods at bay - and that was with intake,headers,exhaust, and a cam.

rskrause

Both are correct as both reflect what MAY happen. I can't give you odds, but will say that ANY forced induction setup on a stock LT1 will have less longevity than just leaving it stock. How much risk are you willing to take? If the car is your daily driver and you are not willing to commit the resources to finding alternate transportation and/or to rebuild it in case of disaster, forget forced induction.

Rich Krause

SDAKOVIC

You will not do any damage unless you are under boost all the time and that is hard to do, I tried.