BAP vs Twin in tank.
BAP vs Twin in tank.
Which way should I go to say max 700rwhp not a hp more?
I know Richard Kraus did 733 with a BAP and a 340M which is what I have.
BAP quoted from kennedydynotunning is around 260... Twin in tank will be more or less that + installation, which I prefer not to go through again
I know Richard Kraus did 733 with a BAP and a 340M which is what I have.
BAP quoted from kennedydynotunning is around 260... Twin in tank will be more or less that + installation, which I prefer not to go through again
I don't care too much for the way a boost-a-pump works. The pump was meant to run at 12 volts -- i don't like the idea of zapping it with a binch of extra juice to make it pump more.
With that said, it has been proven to handle the power... How long have setups like this lasted?
My vote goes for the twin in-tank, but I'd rather do the extra work once to avoid spending more and doing it a second time (learned things like this the hard way in the past).
With that said, it has been proven to handle the power... How long have setups like this lasted?
My vote goes for the twin in-tank, but I'd rather do the extra work once to avoid spending more and doing it a second time (learned things like this the hard way in the past).
I figured this pump with the racetronix harness was going to widstand 600rwhp which was my final goal.. well.. it did... and at 55psi I might add. Now I want a bit more power...
Sometimes is not enough...
Sometimes is not enough...
For the bucks you can't beat it...
When you get the MSD BAP set the max voltage to the thick red wire going into the module to 17V. This will put you at about 16.5V in the tank as the small length of factory wire and connector lose apx. 0.5V.
When you get the MSD BAP set the max voltage to the thick red wire going into the module to 17V. This will put you at about 16.5V in the tank as the small length of factory wire and connector lose apx. 0.5V.


