Just don't use the performace tuning with the S/C.

 

It sounds like to me another performance shop telling a customer anything to sell them a blower. Trust me I have been around my share of blowers. Yes tuning is extremely important but the motor will grenade. It maybe 10 miles or 30,000 miles but it will eventually go. Trust me.

 

That's psychological, my friend. You spent money, so you want to feel like you spent it well. No one ever gets any more than a .10 in the 1320 with theirs.

CJ- I will amend that to cats too.

S.

 

hey Detroit, Many people will tell you the Hypertech's are crap but few know that they also have a custom SC program that looks like a gameboy cartrage that can be installed into the HPP and then used to program your computer. All I can say is that you should give Hypertech a call and see if they still have this avaliable since you already have a HPP. The updated SC programing is about $150 bucks. I have it in my car and for me I can say it works great. Some will say that the other guys (ed Right..etc) are better but I can tell you from my own personnal experance that for me a HPP with the custom SCprogramming has made my car run great. And where do I get this from? Well for me it was the 95,000+ miles & several years of driving a daily driven street car that is supercharged. Having air fuel ratios that are right on so I get good power and reliablity. I really don't know too many people that can say all that with their setups. Understand though for MAX power other custom programs will make more power, but from what I have seen it is at the cost of overall long term reliablity. In any case I would always recommend getting your car "dyno-tuned" this way you can see alot of the engines different outputs,(ie;intake temp, water temp, air/fuel ration, etc..) and make sure the entire setup is running correctly. It also tells you the real HP#'s instead of the BS benchracing mathmatics. Good luck, and hope this helps.

 

My biggest problem with hypertech is that no two cars are the same. Yeah that supercharger program may work great for you but for others it may suck. I have always been a firm believer in dyno tuning a car.

 

I agree, I had my old setup dyno tuned by Shalin Patel and after 16,000 miles, ~75 passes at the track and 20 or so dyno pulls I spun the second, third and fourth main bearings on the crank.

Since that fateful day (July 21, 2001 7:04 pm according to the timeslip) I have.....

A) spent a small fortune on my Z building something with *****

B) taken along time sorting out the associated gremlins

C) bought a LS-1 Z/28 as a daily driver

Marc

 

Please take your time with supercharging. I have, like many others, been through hell and back with it. fortify every component, including the block, pistons, rearend, reareand, and the radiator needs to be upgraded to address cooling needs. These are the things that the supercharger company will never tell you. take it from us guys that know first hand. Tread wisely!!

 

here is my 2 cents.....

i put a 14 psi ati high flow twin intercooled charger on mt lt1 and it runs great(p1sc kit) its definatly not an easy install i would say it is really time consuming!! it was out on 1 year ago with 50,000
miles on it now i have 75,000 miles on the car and still running stong.

 

There is noway in hell thats a stock LT1!

 

I agree. I put a seven pound ATI kit on my stock motor and the thing started smoking from the tailpipes; I eventually had to rebuild. So there is no way Im going to believe that a stock LT1 will live with 14lbs of boost. He can tell that to a two year old.

 

Well, he could run 14 psi on a stock block... if he had a big intake leak after the hairdryer!

 

What unit are you running and making 14lbs of boost? Also what size pulley?

 

I think he said he was running the P1sc unite

 

Dammit get back to work on your motor, lol.

 

Ive heard the same thing man. Ive talked to Bob at exotic performance plus MANY times. He said that 8 pounds of intercooled boost is safe on dyno tuning. Its really important to run it around 12/1 or 11.5/1 and run a couple degrees retard to get ANY engine to hold up to the boost. Other shops have told me the same exact thing....dyno tuning, dyno tuning, dyno tuning.