Am I too lean?
Also, I think the 103 is the NGKTR6 cross reference.
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...reference.html
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...reference.html
Also, I think the 103 is the NGKTR6 cross reference.
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...reference.html
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...reference.html
Good find Scott!
I wonder if you have a lazy injector? Do you have any data logs or tuner cat files? I use both and am bored all the time I can look them over just to give second opinions, I am no tuning pro but i have another buddy that knows his ****.
Jay
Jay
I was thinking that as well. I am waiting on my laptop to be delivered so I can log/tune with it. I am not sure it will show anything though.
Jon, what is your ignition system? If you remember I had crazy, crazy issues with my setup after first getting it started and I went thru hell figuring it out. I had...
1. Reset valves several times
2. Swapped injectors
3. Bought 'noid light to test harness
4. Replaced wires
5. Replaced plugs multiple times
6. Reprogrammed the PCM more than a dozen times
7. Replaced coils
8. Took apart factory harness and examined every-GD-%&#@!-wire...
9. Bought new wiring harness ($$$)
10. Took off timing cover and verified cam timing(introducing a pan leak in the process that devils me to this day)
After all that, it still ran the same way. Bought a stock Opti from Summit, new factory coil, new factory ICM, New Taylor wires, new Autolite 103's. Took off new LTCC that I bought/installed and put on the stock ignition. Fired right up and ran/runs great.
I sent the LTCC to Bob Bailey and had him test it. He said it ran fine on his test mule. He mentioned that the ICM signal wire connector (a male spade connector) looked bent to the side. As if it missed the female connector. The connector design I used has a plastic cowl over both the female and male ends. So, in hindsight, it may have just be that when I pushed them together, the male blade deflected, was only making marginal contact with the female side but the plastic cowls prevented me from seeing this condition. I tested the spark several times while the LTCC was in place. I had a spare opti and had hooked up the Opti pigtail to the LTCC and my hand held opti. With this in place, I could just spin the opti with my thumb and forefinger and watch the plugs spark. They sparked plenty but it always seemed that it sparked too much. Instead of a cyclical *snap*, *snap*, *snap*, etc that was commensurate with the deceleration of the opti as it slowed from the initial spin, it was more like like when you drag a 'hot' 12v wire across a grounded surface. You know what I mean by that? Lots of sparks, almost at random. With the LTCC in place. It would start fine and idle but always ran pig rich and would wet foul the plugs but pretty much only one side(passenger). I could drive it but it felt like it was only running on, at best, 7 cylinders. Frustrated the living sh*t out of me for about a month. I'm going to put the LTCC back on next month. Right now, the car runs fantastic and I'm more in love with that car than I've ever been. Puts a smile a mile wide on my face every day I drive it.
1. Reset valves several times
2. Swapped injectors
3. Bought 'noid light to test harness
4. Replaced wires
5. Replaced plugs multiple times
6. Reprogrammed the PCM more than a dozen times
7. Replaced coils
8. Took apart factory harness and examined every-GD-%&#@!-wire...
9. Bought new wiring harness ($$$)
10. Took off timing cover and verified cam timing(introducing a pan leak in the process that devils me to this day)
After all that, it still ran the same way. Bought a stock Opti from Summit, new factory coil, new factory ICM, New Taylor wires, new Autolite 103's. Took off new LTCC that I bought/installed and put on the stock ignition. Fired right up and ran/runs great.
I sent the LTCC to Bob Bailey and had him test it. He said it ran fine on his test mule. He mentioned that the ICM signal wire connector (a male spade connector) looked bent to the side. As if it missed the female connector. The connector design I used has a plastic cowl over both the female and male ends. So, in hindsight, it may have just be that when I pushed them together, the male blade deflected, was only making marginal contact with the female side but the plastic cowls prevented me from seeing this condition. I tested the spark several times while the LTCC was in place. I had a spare opti and had hooked up the Opti pigtail to the LTCC and my hand held opti. With this in place, I could just spin the opti with my thumb and forefinger and watch the plugs spark. They sparked plenty but it always seemed that it sparked too much. Instead of a cyclical *snap*, *snap*, *snap*, etc that was commensurate with the deceleration of the opti as it slowed from the initial spin, it was more like like when you drag a 'hot' 12v wire across a grounded surface. You know what I mean by that? Lots of sparks, almost at random. With the LTCC in place. It would start fine and idle but always ran pig rich and would wet foul the plugs but pretty much only one side(passenger). I could drive it but it felt like it was only running on, at best, 7 cylinders. Frustrated the living sh*t out of me for about a month. I'm going to put the LTCC back on next month. Right now, the car runs fantastic and I'm more in love with that car than I've ever been. Puts a smile a mile wide on my face every day I drive it.
Hey Dave,
So I was running the stock ignition setup, except for MSD wires and NGK TR6's gapped @ .032
Never had the stalling problem when it idled in the garage on jackstands... always a smooth idle (no fluctuations).
Then I took it for one test spin, ran great.
Then I took it for a 2nd test spin ran great until the last pull, I felt it break up a little around 5krpm, then it immediately stalled twice while driving afterwards (doing 40mph or so, it just shut off).
Then I checked the plugs on the drivers side, checked the oil in the valvecover and on the dipstick (looked fine). Wires on the driver's side appear to be fine (even the one with the white plug). I need to check the pass side.
I just installed an MSD coil... still hunts at idle, but revs smooth when hit the gas. I have a MSD6BTM I have to install still.
So I was running the stock ignition setup, except for MSD wires and NGK TR6's gapped @ .032
Never had the stalling problem when it idled in the garage on jackstands... always a smooth idle (no fluctuations).
Then I took it for one test spin, ran great.
Then I took it for a 2nd test spin ran great until the last pull, I felt it break up a little around 5krpm, then it immediately stalled twice while driving afterwards (doing 40mph or so, it just shut off).
Then I checked the plugs on the drivers side, checked the oil in the valvecover and on the dipstick (looked fine). Wires on the driver's side appear to be fine (even the one with the white plug). I need to check the pass side.
I just installed an MSD coil... still hunts at idle, but revs smooth when hit the gas. I have a MSD6BTM I have to install still.
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