aftermarket computer
aftermarket computer
I copied this post in the computer programming section as well but I figure the people in this section would have more experience with this.
I am ready to step to either buy FAST or Accel Gen VII for my 96 LT4 Corvette. The car has a forged 383 bottom end running 10lbs thru an S-Trim with between 100-175 shot of nitrous.
I currently have LT1 edit but think that stepping to one of the aftermarket computers will have a significant gain in power.
Which do you have experience and which one would you recommend? Any recommendations on where I can find the best price to buy?
Thanks.
Madhu
I am ready to step to either buy FAST or Accel Gen VII for my 96 LT4 Corvette. The car has a forged 383 bottom end running 10lbs thru an S-Trim with between 100-175 shot of nitrous.
I currently have LT1 edit but think that stepping to one of the aftermarket computers will have a significant gain in power.
Which do you have experience and which one would you recommend? Any recommendations on where I can find the best price to buy?
Thanks.
Madhu
There are a number of reasons to consider an aftermarket ECU, but from what's in your sig, I don't see what you would gain. Availability of LJ's (Acceleronics) low-Z injector driver has really decreased to a very very few the number of setups needing an aftermarket unit. If I were going to install one, I strongly consider the Electromotive TEC3 or the Motec. But again, I'd like to know what you are trying to accomplish with the stock PCM that you can't.
WOT tuning with an aftermarket ECU is easy, but if you think it's "plug-n-play" wrt part-throttle/daily driving use, you are mistaken. For every believable person posting here saying that they had the tune nailed down in a couple of hours, I have seen cars that were towed into the shop because they would barely run or not start at all after the owner installed an aftermarket unit. Don't believe the hype.
Rich Krause
WOT tuning with an aftermarket ECU is easy, but if you think it's "plug-n-play" wrt part-throttle/daily driving use, you are mistaken. For every believable person posting here saying that they had the tune nailed down in a couple of hours, I have seen cars that were towed into the shop because they would barely run or not start at all after the owner installed an aftermarket unit. Don't believe the hype.
Rich Krause
When you get a FAST system there is a startup program loaded onto your computer to get you started. But as stated above there is alot of hours to be spent learning and tuning the computer. The main reason I recommended contacting Cal at Hartline performance is because of the experience and customer service he provides with each box he sells. My car was way off an it took him a few hours on the dyno to get my car dialed in. He not only tuned for WOT but drivablility also. Last month he flew into MI and tuned 5 cars. Every car increased on the average of 100 rwhp. If you decide to call him tell him Arthur sent you.
I went to a FAST from using LT1 Edit this last winter. I'm NOT good at tuning and indeed I had relied on friends to tune the car with LT1 Edit.
Personally I feel that on a blown car, LT1 Edit is a bit of a blunt instument. Certainly in the hands of a patient person with a good understanding of how everything works, the blunt instrument can still carve out the results you want although it might take some time. I also think LT1 Edit is easier to tune for driveability due to the MAF.
However, Edit of course does not read boost.
I went with a FAST with a WB sensor. There is no denying that I too have spent a lot of time tuning with the FAST but I have felt a lot more comfortable with it given that I could immediately see the results of my changes and just felt that there was less chance I would screw it up. Tuning on the fly also will save a LOT of time rather then tuning and uploading with Edit.
FAST is a scalpel and in the hands of a ham fisted, desk jockey like myself, I was still able and comfortable, to use it and get the results I wanted.
As a disclaimer, it is only fair to say that I did have a local FAST user running an 7.90 sec stang just around the corner who was able to help me and get me started.
If you have the money I would recommend a new ECU especially if you are not a rocker scientist with this tuning game.
That being all said, I still have not been able to get my driveability 'perfect'. Its good, but not perfect. I think it is the lack of a MAF that is making this more difiicult.
Personally I feel that on a blown car, LT1 Edit is a bit of a blunt instument. Certainly in the hands of a patient person with a good understanding of how everything works, the blunt instrument can still carve out the results you want although it might take some time. I also think LT1 Edit is easier to tune for driveability due to the MAF.
However, Edit of course does not read boost.
I went with a FAST with a WB sensor. There is no denying that I too have spent a lot of time tuning with the FAST but I have felt a lot more comfortable with it given that I could immediately see the results of my changes and just felt that there was less chance I would screw it up. Tuning on the fly also will save a LOT of time rather then tuning and uploading with Edit.
FAST is a scalpel and in the hands of a ham fisted, desk jockey like myself, I was still able and comfortable, to use it and get the results I wanted.
As a disclaimer, it is only fair to say that I did have a local FAST user running an 7.90 sec stang just around the corner who was able to help me and get me started.
If you have the money I would recommend a new ECU especially if you are not a rocker scientist with this tuning game.
That being all said, I still have not been able to get my driveability 'perfect'. Its good, but not perfect. I think it is the lack of a MAF that is making this more difiicult.
Originally posted by 97TA-WS6-Con
I went to a FAST from using LT1 Edit this last winter. I'm NOT good at tuning and indeed I had relied on friends to tune the car with LT1 Edit.
Personally I feel that on a blown car, LT1 Edit is a bit of a blunt instument. Certainly in the hands of a patient person with a good understanding of how everything works, the blunt instrument can still carve out the results you want although it might take some time. I also think LT1 Edit is easier to tune for driveability due to the MAF.
However, Edit of course does not read boost.
I went with a FAST with a WB sensor. There is no denying that I too have spent a lot of time tuning with the FAST but I have felt a lot more comfortable with it given that I could immediately see the results of my changes and just felt that there was less chance I would screw it up. Tuning on the fly also will save a LOT of time rather then tuning and uploading with Edit.
FAST is a scalpel and in the hands of a ham fisted, desk jockey like myself, I was still able and comfortable, to use it and get the results I wanted.
As a disclaimer, it is only fair to say that I did have a local FAST user running an 7.90 sec stang just around the corner who was able to help me and get me started.
If you have the money I would recommend a new ECU especially if you are not a rocker scientist with this tuning game.
That being all said, I still have not been able to get my driveability 'perfect'. Its good, but not perfect. I think it is the lack of a MAF that is making this more difiicult.
I went to a FAST from using LT1 Edit this last winter. I'm NOT good at tuning and indeed I had relied on friends to tune the car with LT1 Edit.
Personally I feel that on a blown car, LT1 Edit is a bit of a blunt instument. Certainly in the hands of a patient person with a good understanding of how everything works, the blunt instrument can still carve out the results you want although it might take some time. I also think LT1 Edit is easier to tune for driveability due to the MAF.
However, Edit of course does not read boost.
I went with a FAST with a WB sensor. There is no denying that I too have spent a lot of time tuning with the FAST but I have felt a lot more comfortable with it given that I could immediately see the results of my changes and just felt that there was less chance I would screw it up. Tuning on the fly also will save a LOT of time rather then tuning and uploading with Edit.
FAST is a scalpel and in the hands of a ham fisted, desk jockey like myself, I was still able and comfortable, to use it and get the results I wanted.
As a disclaimer, it is only fair to say that I did have a local FAST user running an 7.90 sec stang just around the corner who was able to help me and get me started.
If you have the money I would recommend a new ECU especially if you are not a rocker scientist with this tuning game.
That being all said, I still have not been able to get my driveability 'perfect'. Its good, but not perfect. I think it is the lack of a MAF that is making this more difiicult.

Rich Krause
To all,
I am looking for a couple things in going to an aftermarket setup. I currently have a great driveability but then again, I have a very small cam (Hotcam) in a 383 and a base program for 50lb injectors.
However, WOT is incredibly off - very very rich on the motor and spray (>9.1). So I looked at a couple options. Having a professional tune it, buy LT1 edit and tune it myself, and buy LT1 edit and have a professional tune it with me tweaking on it.
I chose to buy LT1 edit as well as the LJ Acceletronic's box (which is not currently hooked up). I started calculating the cost of a professional tune or even dyno time and it seems like buying an aftermarket setup might not be exactly equal in cost but its not as far off as I had thought.
I figure if I can dial it in to a degree on the street with FAST/GEN VII, the time I spend on a dyno will be very little compared to what I currently have to spend now.
Plus I want a bunch of different programs (pump gas tune with blower, race gas tune with blower, and race gas tune with blower+nitrous) and that it would be easier to do with an aftermarket setup than LT1 edit.
Or I could always fly Rich down, rent the dyno for a couple days, and have him take a shot at it
New Orleans is a fun town ......
I am looking for a couple things in going to an aftermarket setup. I currently have a great driveability but then again, I have a very small cam (Hotcam) in a 383 and a base program for 50lb injectors.
However, WOT is incredibly off - very very rich on the motor and spray (>9.1). So I looked at a couple options. Having a professional tune it, buy LT1 edit and tune it myself, and buy LT1 edit and have a professional tune it with me tweaking on it.
I chose to buy LT1 edit as well as the LJ Acceletronic's box (which is not currently hooked up). I started calculating the cost of a professional tune or even dyno time and it seems like buying an aftermarket setup might not be exactly equal in cost but its not as far off as I had thought.
I figure if I can dial it in to a degree on the street with FAST/GEN VII, the time I spend on a dyno will be very little compared to what I currently have to spend now.
Plus I want a bunch of different programs (pump gas tune with blower, race gas tune with blower, and race gas tune with blower+nitrous) and that it would be easier to do with an aftermarket setup than LT1 edit.
Or I could always fly Rich down, rent the dyno for a couple days, and have him take a shot at it
New Orleans is a fun town ......
Originally posted by Madhu
I figure if I can dial it in to a degree on the street with FAST/GEN VII, the time I spend on a dyno will be very little compared to what I currently have to spend now.
I figure if I can dial it in to a degree on the street with FAST/GEN VII, the time I spend on a dyno will be very little compared to what I currently have to spend now.
I had 'wasted' about $1000 going the Edit route and thought it was time to cut my losses and make the decision that I should have made it the beginning.
Again, I do understand and accept that there are many people making Edit work for them, but they have the time and talent that I simply do not have.
New Orleans, hmmm....
The thing is, the stock PCM (with MAF) works so nicely with very little tweaking as far as starting/light load. It partly depends how picky you are. Yes, I know it is possible dial an aftermaket ECU in perfectly. But I must say that that would take a very long time. It's a matter of what your goals are, what resources you have, etc. Eventually, I may install an aftermarket unit, just because I think it will be fun to fool around with. But just be aware that they are not "plug-n-play". And don't necessarily expect more hp. After all, a carb gives every bit as much peak hp (if not more) as EFI.
BTW: the Acceleronics box was P-n-P.
Rich Krause

The thing is, the stock PCM (with MAF) works so nicely with very little tweaking as far as starting/light load. It partly depends how picky you are. Yes, I know it is possible dial an aftermaket ECU in perfectly. But I must say that that would take a very long time. It's a matter of what your goals are, what resources you have, etc. Eventually, I may install an aftermarket unit, just because I think it will be fun to fool around with. But just be aware that they are not "plug-n-play". And don't necessarily expect more hp. After all, a carb gives every bit as much peak hp (if not more) as EFI.
BTW: the Acceleronics box was P-n-P.
Rich Krause
Originally posted by IDOXLR8
I would highly recommend a FAST system. For the best prices and tech I would contact www.hartlineperformance.com.
I would highly recommend a FAST system. For the best prices and tech I would contact www.hartlineperformance.com.
The reason it is going to the wrong website is because their is a period after com.
Try this
www.hartlineperformance.com
Try this
www.hartlineperformance.com
But that's not something that can be done by the average person either. I would think that's a job for someone who's proficient w/ a hex-editor. I always liked how the 3rd gen guys simply switched over the SyTy code on blown TPI cars. I don't think the 4th gen guys have a readily available code like that though.


