What brand of block would you use, and why, for a (406 sbc), 1000 + hp?
Would you use JE's extreme duty, inv. dome, shelf pistons (pn 131633)
Thanks, Steve

 

This is a drag motor? How important is $$$? Do you want something pretty much ready to go, or are you prepared for signficant machining to get it ready? How important is weight? In very general terms, GM's various race blocks are pretty well thought out and depending on the exact part are going to be closer to ready to use than a lot of the others.

Rich

 

This is a street/strip (mostly stip) app.
Money is a very important issue, but it was an issue when I built a stock block setup! I have a stout setup now, but Im only at 625rwhp with a mild cam/heads and D1sc 383. I now have a YSi trim that I want to push.
That being said, I can't afford an alum. block, so it must be iron. I want to stick to a 406 for all the obvious reasons. I will probably get a block as close to finished as possible, but we all know it won't be truly ready out of the box.
This may be a dumb question, but why does GM rate the various Bowtie blocks for very low hp? I don't think any are rated for more than 850 hp. I'm sure it's a "covering thier butts" issue, but how do I know?
Any help is very appreciated.
Thanks, Steve

 

Steve: those ratings are pretty obviously VERY conservative, because a well prepped stock block will last at those levels. In your case, a stocker still might do the job but by the time you prep it, it won't save any $$ and will not be as good. I am sure you know this, which is why you posed the question, right?

If Al is out, I would say "Bowtie". Now, I have not been involved with any of their small blocks for quite some time. But the BB's are great and the price, for what you are getting seems to be very reasonable, The quality of the Bowties has always been very good, but they used to be extremely expensive. GM seems to have decided to be more competitive with them. Who knows why??? Anyway, that is my disclaimer - no recent experience with the Bowtie smallblock. But I would try one in minute if I was looking to build up a hi-po Gen I. That said, if I were starting clean sheet I would go LSX all the way. But that is not what you are planning.

The GMPP catalog can be downloaded. I would look at
PN 12480047
350 Bowtie Sportsman Block, 2-Piece Rear Main Seal
• CNC-machined cast iron competition block
• +/-0.001" machining tolerances
• 4- bolt nodular mains, splayed caps on center 3 mains
• 3.980" finished bore
• 4.155" max bore (siamese cylinder bores)
• Extra smooth gasket surfaces for better seal
• Tall lifter bores

Scoggin-Dickey has it listed for less than $1,700 and if it is machined like the BB Bowties, all it's going to need is to be bored and honed for your pistons, then bolt it together. This is not true with the Dart. Now, I am not knocking Dart. They make a fine product and I lusted after one for years. But is isn't where I would go as of now. The little M is near $2,000 with iron caps and ~$2,400 with steel. The Iron Eagle is more and all the Dart blocks need a fair amount of work. BTW - I think the nodular caps on the Bowtie are a'ok at the level you are considering. In fact, I put my money where my mouth is - I just ordered PN 25534362, a Bowtie "Sportsman" BB.

Rich

 

Thanks for the replies Rich, very good info. Looks like the Bowtie is in the running. The machine shop I work with told me he has had some issues with Dart (including cust. serv.) products as far as machine work-bolt holes not lining up, etc. He does say the castings are very good though. It sound like it could cost more than it should for the Dart piece.
I would love to do an LSX based build, but I bet I could double the price of a gen 1 sbc. The iron block 6.0 LS looks like it could work, but the 4 bolt cyl. heads make me nervous.
Thanks again, Steve