http://forums.webrats.com/showthread.php?t=5112

 

Sure on the dyno. Is it going to hold a big clutch dump at the track? Probably not.

 

exactly...

 

car has made 15-20 passes at the track
120+ mph

has been in the car for 6months

so hah to all the haters
and all i care about is the street where it matters, go put your cars back on the trailer

 

sure but did you launch it with a 6000rpm clutch dump?

How does your flywheel look...?

 

Friends 580RWHP m-6 T/A's brand new Centerforce burned up real quick. Maybe 1k miles on it. I was in the car after working on it when he hit it from a traffic light and it broke instantly.


Other just have the usual Centerforce nightmare engagement problems.

It is a crap shoot with Centerforce. I have installed 6 of these clutches and 3 of the 6 had problems, including my personal vehicle.

 

dont need to dump it at 6k

and no clue what the flywheel looks like everything works like a charm. and I can tell you horror stories about spec too
friend of mine had one end up in her seat not pretty.

another friends exploded 200 miles in to it

the list goes on and on, just stateing the cluth will make 500 RWHP with no problems

 

Clutch doesn't make ANY rwhp.

Are you a guy or a girl? Your profile over there said female.

 

Maybe this will be of some use to someone.

Last summer I installed a Dual Friction clutch and pressure plate (#DF024909, TOB #1716) behind the new 454 H.O. crate motor (iron head, 425hp) that I put in my truck. My truck is an '83 K-30. It's a 4wd, 1-ton dually. Has the SM465 trans, (3-spd with granny low) and an NP205 transfer case. I can side step the clutch at about 3200rpm in second gear (first, depending how you look at it), stomp the gas and stand on the brake and sit perfectly still except for a little lateral movement and smoke four 31" tall BFG all-terrain tires as long as I want. I just put on new Alcoa Classics and six new all-terrains so no more burn-outs. It is a work truck after all.
I haven't had any trouble with this clutch or plate. Before anyone brings up the misconception that trucks are lite in the back, that isn't so. Especially mine. Truck weight without me or a full tank of gas is a little over 6000lbs. The rear axle (Dana 70HD) alone weights I'm told around 700lbs.
Centerforce installation instructions stress a 450-500 mile break-in. Driving normal in stop and go traffic. It was hard to do, but I did it. Are the clutches that are landing on peoples laps being broken in correctly? Were the bolts torqued correctly? Using Loc-tite? Totally grease free installation? Clutch and pressure plates don't leave the confines of a bellhousing going up. Down maybe, and rarely without the flywheel. When that happens, it isn't a bad clutch. I'm not trying to make this an endorsment for Centerforce, but the fact of the matter is, a bad clutch, no matter what brand, is normally the fault of the installer.
Keep in mind I'm dumping the clutch on a motor with 500 lb-ft, in a truck that weighs over 6000lb. I hope my clutch never chases me out of the truck.
I don't have an 4th gen car. But I do have a 1970 Nova. We're about to start on a 406" SBC that should dyno in the 650hp range. It will be driven on the street, and it will have a Dual Friction clutch. I'm confident it will work flawless. I'll let you know if it doesn't.



I

 

except most of us don't trailor our cars to the track

and yes, centerforce does suck. i've seen a number of em trashed in no time with 350-400hp cars

spec stage 3 is the only clutch i've heard about from them thats cracked. stage 2 and stage 4 are about industructable.... i know because a buddy has a stage 2 in his car (slicks/12 bolt) and i have the stage 4 (full bolt-on and DR's)

 

my STOCK clutch held 450rwhp/640rwtq on they dyno.