First of all, Im cheap, just wanted to clear that up.....

I am thriving for more power and I heard a Tq converter is the way to go.

So Looked on Jegs.com, and found some B&M Tork Master Converters

My first thought is that its B&M, name brand, cant be bad right?

Well for a 2000 stall its $232, and a 2400 stall is $256.....

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1. Is this an okay converter?
2. 2000, or 2400 for me?
3. how is the install myself, will anyone help me, or whats a shop gonna charge?
4. Are there any other parts I need to buy for the install?

 

Most people will tell you to spend the money on a Yank, Fuddle, or Vigilante. Now that is out of the way......

I just installed a B&M 2400 in my car. It was a pretty easy job. The top trans bolts require about 18" of extensions, and the middle bolt on the drivers side comes out with a box wrench. The trans lines are also a little tough to get at, but not too bad. I jacked the car up evenly and supported all 4 corners with jackstands, Took off the driveshaft, torque arm, trans mount, and the drive shaft catcher-thingy. Took off the inspection cover, removed the flexplate bolts, linkage, electrical connectors, and finally the trans bolts.

I dropped the trans down just far enough to get the converter out, and the new one in. I put about a quart of fluid in the new converter before putting it on. Don't forget a good trans cooler as well.
I did it by myself in about 4 hours altogether.

The 2400 does not feel very loose. I would have definitely gone with a 3000 or 3500 if I were to do it again. It stalls at 2800 on my bolt-on car. If I power brake it will spin the tires around 1900 rpm. But if I just mash the gas, it flashes to 2800 and goes. Not too bad I guess considering the stock converter was so tight that it felt like the car was trying to push through the brakes at a stop.

With the stock converter, my car felt good in 1st and 2nd gear, but when it hit 3rd it felt like it fell off a bit. It seems to pull better in 3rd gear now. A little slippage keeps the rpms up I guess. As long as it locks up enough to keep my trap speeds up at the top end i'll be happy.

 

Dont bother unless its at least a 3000 stall. I have a 3200 and it might rev 200 RMP more then before around town. Its still very streetible. I had a shop put mine in when they rebuilt the tranny so im not sure about your other questions.

 

I would say 2800+ I stepped up to a yank 2800 and the car is night and day compared to before. It also rev's a good bit more than 200 rpm than before too (perhaps itsa the brand?), and mashing the gas now reeeaaaly gets the car going at lower speeds.

 

There is a reason why most people stay away from that converter and a few others. The few that don't soon learn their lesson, or are the few percent that are lucky.

 

exgmguy, the converter does not lock-up under full throttle. Although some have set it up with a switch so it does. A single disc converter is not enough to handle this though and still last.