I am truly sorry for the long read but I truly appreciate the time anyone takes to read this and give me a little help here. Thank you, I do appreciate the help.

Well as the title says, I'm having an issue with how the TCC is locking up during cruise and deceleleration.

I did my homework before I had this transmission done, because I don't want to have to go through it again.

Background:
1994 Z28 383 LT1 ~386RWHP/284RWTQ

*4L60E that has been worked on:
*Trans specs: (I watched them do this stuff)
-GM 5 pinion planetary FRONT and REAR
-Fairbanks super hold 1,2 servo
-Kevlar band (standard width because I've heard of edge burning if used on a good used reverse input drum)
-Alto red eagle clutches and full thickness Kolene steels (I think we got 8 in there, I forget)
-New bearing/bushings
-New upgraded sprag
-New beast sun shell
-Trans-Go shift Kit
-New solenoids (1-2,3-4,TCC, EPC)
-New Pressure manifold
-New Pump
-Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF
I'm sure I’m missing something but that’s the general gist of the transmissions internals.

PHD Torque Converter (local Builder, I was referred by some local guys that make big power (550+) and recommended them highly.
-3000 RPM stall
-Hardened front Hub
-Anti-ballooning plates (I plan on spray, IF I can get this trans to work right)
-10” converter
-Billet cover
-Carbon-Kevlar HD clutch (I was told by whom referred me that his 10 has been taking full lock up at the 1/8 for well over 100 passes)

If I’m in 3rd and going 45 (TCC LOCKED) and I put a little accelerator pedal into it to accelerate, but not enough pedal to make the TCC unlock, you can feel the engine pull through the TCC clutch, like its slipping and when you let off the pedal the rpm's will come back down to the proper speed at said mph. Now its not slipping HUGE but you can tell its slipping around 2-300RPMs, this is only on light (TCC LOCKED) acceleration, under normal cruise and driving its perfect.

And problem 2, If I’m crazy then please tell me but I could have sworn that when you have it in 1st or 2nd gear (selected manually) and decelerate it will keep the TCC locked up until you hit the brake or it gets below a certain speed where the TCC will unlock. My TCC stays unlocked when you let off the pedal and it goes almost to idle in 1 or 2 at any speed. I don’t think it ever did this before and its really violent if your going 40-45 in second and punch it, it goes from 1200RPM to 3000RPM in a hurry and it never did that (at least I don't think), it would keep the revs there until you got on it and put the magic %TPS into it to make the TCC unlock for WOT.


I don’t know, but I’m having hell here because I’ve dropped well over 2 grand on this trans and TC (I did the R&R they just built the stuff) and I keep having these BS problems. This is the 3rd trans in this car and this time it was done to my specs.

Just to fill in the gaps, This setup is a freaking DREAM at WOT, no slipping, No wishy-washy shifts, just all out business, PERFECT. It's these non wot things that are bothering me, because I don't want them to compound on me.

ANY HELP AND INSIGHT IS VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!!!

Thank you all so very much,
T.C. Stachowicz

 

on the matter of pulling through I dont know if the PWM has been disabled but
this may be normal since if it hasnt these units are premmited to allow the converter to slip some when the pwm has no been disabled.
The converter should not stay locked on decel in manual 2nd and first though you should feel some drag from overun ,
the kickdown to as long as its solid and not slipping sounds normal too ,
it sounds to me like you have a performance transmission , and agressive the jerk down hard under decel ect , is all normal

 

could it be a problem with the over run clutches then if the RPM go to idle if im in manual 1st or 2nd, there is no resistance once you let off the pedal the RPM just drop right off, it used to engine brake down a bit then you would feel a def unlock and then they would fall. Before it would keep the RPM's up higher but now they just drop off.

Also On this most recent rebuild i had to get a new overrun drum because mine was cracked and all the clutches were SMOKED.

 

You may have a problem with the over run clutches or the over run hub of the input sprag. These are known to rip the lugs off of them.

Unfortunately, the other info given to you here is false. Your car is a '94, which is a non PWM unit. Strange, they didn't know that .

As a side note...You can use a wide band if your original drum is flat.

Have you had the car back to the place that worked on it? It's always easier to diagnose something when you can drive it.

If you don't have any success there, you can give me a call. Maybe we can figure it out easier on the phone. 302-250-1202. Where are you located?

Thanks,
Frank
CPT

 

actually I just didnt notice is the sig that it was a 94

 

im in the metro detroit area of detroit. I have gone back and they aren't being asses or anything so i might have to pull this f'n thing out again.

hey at least I can get this thing out of the car in less than 2 hours in my garage. lol.

 

Good Luck let everyone know what they find