Alright, here is the delema:

I have a 500fwhp motor. I cant launch for crap. I have stock 3.42 gears. Every time I try to race my tires just spin, My clutch roasts, and the car just sucks. (Partial driver error, yeah I know) And I always seem to miss a gear. Every racer I see, like NHRA or whatever, has an automatic tranny. I am begining to see why.

My car is a 95 originally equiped with a T-56. I have a brand new LT1 stock clutch and pressure plate in it. It doesn't hold anything.

So, I am seriously considering converting to a 4L60E. Has anyone done this, and LIKED it? I bought my car with a stick becuase I love spirited driving. I fear that if I switch to an auto, I wont enjoy my car the same. But, I work with two guys who race NHRA, and Dean, the tranny god at my work, said I need to go with a 4L60E tranny instead of the 700R4 becuase electronic shifting is the cats @ss. He also said 4L60E over the 4L80E becuase the '80 is about a hundred pounds heavier, and eats up more of your horsepower. He said a well built 4L60E would be more than enough to handle my car. Not only that, but it will take all driver error out of the picture, so when I race I wont loose becuase of missed shifts and stuff.

Also, I dont want to break my tranny before I can sell it and make some money. Looking around, the cheapest I can find a built up T-56 is like 3 grand. Plus the Mcleod street twin clutch is another grand. I am pretty sure I can get into a very nice auto for 1500 bucks. Am I wrong here?

Will I have to switch out engine harnesses? I have a 95, what years would work with ZERO modifications?

I also have unlimited updates through Jeff Creech, so I dont need a new PCM, he can just retune it.

Also, what kind of converter would I need for a DAILY DRIVER? I cant stress that enough, I drive this every day. (in the summer here in MN) I dont want to fight the car to enjoy it. Also, what size diameter, and do they make ones that lock up? Or do I not need that function?

Ok, that is all the questions I can think of for now. I really want some feedback from everyone! There thoughts, experience, what I should do.

Thanks everyone!
Cody

 

Your gonna need a hell of a stall. You can pin the 4L60E's harness into your PCM, otherwise you'll need a harness from a 95. 96 switches to OBDII, and the 94 had different wires going to the tranny. I believe a pretty decent built 4L60E will run somewhere north of $1200.

I switced my 4L60E to a T56 in my 94 after goiing through 3 autos....and I won't ever look back. Different strokes for different folks, but the 6-speed is my choice.

 

Like said, you need a 95 PCM, however, you can use any 95-97 transmissions. Or you can find a 94 PCM, but you would have to use a 94 transmission.

Converter wise, with 500hp, daily driven, I would want a 2600 with lock up. But also I have never touched a TC outside of a car so my opinion is not very creditable.

For a little less than 2 grand you can have a very nice trans built. Also, since you are from MN like me, and I know you are on mnfbody.com, look up the screen name NVR2OLD. He knows a guy that built a transmission for him that supposably can hold up to 600hp. I guess it was a very good price too.

Lastly, I have a brand new 4L60E installed from GM if you want to trade

 

I answered your PM... 700R4 is the easiest way to go...No need to change your computer. The 700 isn't electronically controlled. It's the same dimensions as a 4L60E, so any 4th gen crossmember, driveshaft, shifter, etc. will work.

Frank
CPT

 

my brother blew my transmission and i had to get it rebuilt.. My dads friend owns a transmission shop and has been building tranny's for 25 years. He recommended above all others the 700R4. he built my tranny for 2200 with a garuntee that it can handle atleast 500rwhp. A 2500 stall speed with lockup was included in this so IMO i would go with a well built 700R4 and a 2500 stall

 

Hmm, looks like people like the 700r4. Is it becuase they are affraid of the new school electronic shifting? My car is all new school, so I really dont want to stop that now.

Besides, I have an AS&M 58mm TB, so I will not be switching to a 93 throttle body. Looks like if I do go with an auto, it should be the 4L60E. I am interested to know what people paid for a built 4L60E tranny, what was inside of it, and if they had to provide a core...

 

afraid? who said anything about being afraid? better is better.. we all know electronics glitch and that we dont always want them to shift where we want.. i think thats the diff. between the 4L60 and the 4L60E but i will call the guy tomorro and see

 

uum...I own the only supporting vendor transmission shop on this site. I can assure you I'm not "afraid" of the 4L60E. We build the best one's in the country.

I was simply trying to give you an easier route to take when doing the swap.

A "Pro Race" rebuild goes for $1400. We're offering a $100 discount for all CZ members for August. A 4L60E core charge will add $300 to that. They're built with better knowledge and parts than you'll find anywhere else...Some even costing double what we charge.

Frank
CPT

 

sorry, I think that came out wrong.. I didn't mean to sound like a dick or anything, I was just wondering why everyone wanted the 700R4, when it is old technology. Now, which tranny is better out of the two for a well beaten daily driver? What kind of warrenty comes with this?

 

The 2 transmissions are equal as far as strength. They share most of the same internals. The only real difference is the way they're controlled.

For our "Race" and "Pro Race" rebuild, we give a 6 month parts/1 year on labor. These warranties are valid even in race vehicles. We build them to hold up to whatever you want to throw at it...With the exception of obvious customer abuse.

Frank
CPT

 

damnit Frank! Your pm box is full, I hope you read this!

I was lookin on your site and digesting some info. I still want the 4L60E. Looking through the options, I still have questions.
What would you recomend for me for a daily driven 95 stroked lt1? My motor is 422rwhp, before my new 58mm TB. So it should be about 440rwhp after tweeking. This was through a T-56 and a stock 3.42 rear. So is that like a 530flywheel motor?? I dont know. I will be getting a strange rear with 3.73 gears... will that play well together or should I look at another gear?
What torque converter would you recomend? Here is a link to my current dyno graph, keep in mind it will change some once I get it all done and tweeked.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...sults/dyno.jpg
Now, what is the defferences between cores? I have a 95, should I look for only a 95 tranny, or what are the options there? I know I need a new wiring harness, again what years will work and what wont? I am trying to guage how bad this is gonna hurt before I just feet first into this.
Also, what kind of good aftermarket shifters exist, or are they not necissary?
I am sure I will think of more questions, but this is enough to help me get started on this!
Thanks so much for your time! I really appreciate it!
~Cody

 

Inbox is empty.

I'd definitely go with our Pro Race build for that power level.

As for the converter, I'd check with Precision Industries about a Vigilante, or possibly Yank. I've heard good things about the Fuddle...but...They seem to have a hard time getting them done right now.

The transmission selection will depend on what year computer you plan to use to control it. '93 f-Bodies use the 700R4, '94 was the first year for the '60E in the F-Body, and it is specific to a '94 computer. '95-'97 are interchangeable as far as computer controls.

The B&M Pro Stick is one of the best shifter made. It's available with an optional 4 speed gate plate. I've seen many incorporate them into the factory console. I chose to eliminate the console in mine.

Frank
CPT

 

Can you build a 4l60E to hold 750 RWHP in a 3700 lb car? If so when this Combination Motorsports 4L60E gives up( I hope it lasts a while) I will be callin ya.


David