Swapping the differential / posi unit...
Swapping the differential / posi unit...
Don't give me the 12 bolt speech, I know all about it.
My 10 bolt has over 300 passes on it, most of them sub 1.7 60' times... the past two years in the low 1.6's. If I can get another 300 passes I'd be happy. If it blows, oh well, 12 bolt time.
It is just now starting to make a bit of noise and occasionally one wheel peels in the burnout box.
My gears are set just right as far as I can tell....
My question is, swapping the differential.. I know I have to pull the ring gear out, but assuming the upgraded differential (whether it be an eaton or an aurburn pro) is the exact same width, would I need to reshim?
How about the pinion gear, does it even need to come loose?
What all is involved, and will I just end up having to reset the gears anyways..
That all being said, Eaton or Aurburn Pro.
My 10 bolt has over 300 passes on it, most of them sub 1.7 60' times... the past two years in the low 1.6's. If I can get another 300 passes I'd be happy. If it blows, oh well, 12 bolt time.
It is just now starting to make a bit of noise and occasionally one wheel peels in the burnout box.
My gears are set just right as far as I can tell....
My question is, swapping the differential.. I know I have to pull the ring gear out, but assuming the upgraded differential (whether it be an eaton or an aurburn pro) is the exact same width, would I need to reshim?
How about the pinion gear, does it even need to come loose?
What all is involved, and will I just end up having to reset the gears anyways..
That all being said, Eaton or Aurburn Pro.
Re: Swapping the differential / posi unit...
I changed my Auburn Cone out for a Torsen Zexel. There was no need to mess with the pinion, crush sleeve et al. I did have to side shim the new differential but this may not apply to you because I went to a different series carrier and used a spacer.
Checking the backlash is a simple thing and applying shims is nearly as easy. I can tell you this; I had no previous experience with what I had to do and it seems to have come out without a hitch.
You will need a magnetic base and dial indicator (1" travel type) to check backlash. These are cheap items any more. Mag base and indicator can be had for $20 - $30.
Placing the shims is really not a difficult thing at all. You basically need a decent assortment but like I said, the trial and error thing went really well for me. It's just a matter of sliding the shims in and out until you get the .006 - .010 backlash.
regardz
Checking the backlash is a simple thing and applying shims is nearly as easy. I can tell you this; I had no previous experience with what I had to do and it seems to have come out without a hitch.
You will need a magnetic base and dial indicator (1" travel type) to check backlash. These are cheap items any more. Mag base and indicator can be had for $20 - $30.
Placing the shims is really not a difficult thing at all. You basically need a decent assortment but like I said, the trial and error thing went really well for me. It's just a matter of sliding the shims in and out until you get the .006 - .010 backlash.
regardz
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