STUCK!!Having trouble after street twin install
Me and my friend just put in a McLeod street twin in my 96' Z28 and now when I put the pedal almost all the way to the floor, the pedal itself grinds somewhere (without even touching the shifter or anything else). And when I push the pedal in to the point right before it grinds (which is like an inch off the floor) and try to put it in gear it won't shift, it feels like I don't even have the pedal in. I checked all the sensors (skip shift, reverse selonoid, etc) and they're all in the right places so I know it isnt that that is keeping me from being able to shift. Anyone have a similiar experience and fixed it? We're figuring it has to do something with the fork (is it possible to install it wrong?) How is it suppose to go on the clip bolted to the tranny? Should the fork have a spring to it by itself or should it be sloppy until the slave cylinder is bolted up? I don't want to have to drop the tranny again if I can help it. Please help.
Myles
Myles
Did you get McLeod's adjustable master cylinder? I have heard it is necessary to make the clutch work properly. The grinding noise you are hearing is the clutch fork hitting the pressure plate. I have read many times about people shaving 0.050" off the bottom of the T-pivot to move the fork further away from the pressure plate. The fork is supposed to be floppy until you bolt the slave cylinder back in.
Are you sure the fork is even engaging the throwout bearing? Before you go about ripping anything apart, I suggest you remove the slave cylinder and the aluminum thingy behind it and look inside the bellhousing with a flashlight. It's very possible that the lack of pedal pressure, zero clutch actuation, and grinding noise are all because the fork is nowhere near the throwout bearing. Make sure the fork engages the bearing, bolt everything back in and try again. If you still get the grinding noise, then you need to shave 0.50" off the bottom of the clutch fork T-pivot. Hope this helps.
Are you sure the fork is even engaging the throwout bearing? Before you go about ripping anything apart, I suggest you remove the slave cylinder and the aluminum thingy behind it and look inside the bellhousing with a flashlight. It's very possible that the lack of pedal pressure, zero clutch actuation, and grinding noise are all because the fork is nowhere near the throwout bearing. Make sure the fork engages the bearing, bolt everything back in and try again. If you still get the grinding noise, then you need to shave 0.50" off the bottom of the clutch fork T-pivot. Hope this helps.
We used the adjustable master cylinder and we also double checked the fork and it seems to be engaging the TO bearing but its kinda hard to see in there. And I get plenty of pedal pressure its just not letting me go into gear right before the pedal starts grinding.
Myles
Myles
Last edited by Mizz96Z28; May 17, 2004 at 04:12 PM.
Well we figured out what was wrong. I guess the skip shift selonoid was stuck in the out position and that was what kept me from shifting because when I unplugged all the electronics from the tranny and pushed the pedal to right before it would grind it shifted into gear so I reset the computer and put the elec. connections back and it works, I just have to back off the adjustable master cylinder so it doesnt push the fork too far and grind. So after 6 months I'll finally be able to drive my car woohoo!
Myles
Myles
Heh, yeah I just got my McLeod single disc in last week too. Man, does that thing grip
, it's pretty much either on or off. There's no slipping it, period. It's changing my driving style a whole lot. I can't imagine what the Street Twin feels like if the single disc combo is supposed to be middle of the road.
, it's pretty much either on or off. There's no slipping it, period. It's changing my driving style a whole lot. I can't imagine what the Street Twin feels like if the single disc combo is supposed to be middle of the road.
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