alright, i am sick of people talking about stalls being too small or too big. i would like to have this topic clarified and tried to be put to justice, even know it probably won't.

which is better? to get a higher stall like 3200+ or to get a high stall converter that fits ur torque curve. i constantly think about when people are saying that a around a 2500 stall is a ***** stall. if it fits ur toruqe curve, wouldn't the stall optimize ur torque and give u the best et? traction permitting of course!!!!

i just want this laid to rest. i would like rskrause to chime in because he has experience. i have read alot on stalls and i have read ur writing on kennedysdynotune.com. i know experience will override and kill all i have read, so thats why i would like experienced guys like rskrause to chime in.

on a side note: rskrause, r u up to have a f-bod meet in buffalo(amherst). alot of my friends would like to set-up one and i would like to meet u and possibly learn a couple of things from u.

 

ttt

 

i have a little experiance on stalls and the street. i have run 3 differant stalls in my car. first stall was a tight 2500. what i mean by tight is it had a lot of resistance on the fluid it really did help on the drag lounch, although it made it a little sluggis feeling on the punch, but it was good for street use. then i changed to a smaller diameter converter when i upgraded my a4. it is a 10 in. lightweight converter. it was a 4500 stall. had a pretty hard lounch but i would hit the revlimit at 85 in 3rd. so i pulled it out and had it tighend up to 2500. well its a lose 2500, maybe a little higher. when i say lose it has very low resistance to the fluid until about 2500 when it starts to get tight. complete differant characteristics then my first one. it gets to be a hassle diving in town, highway doesnt matter due to the lockup.


after trying all these i think i would say if you wanted good drivability dont go over 3000, mayby 3200. it will be a pain a low speeds expecialy if you going up a hill, which is why i went a little tighter then i wanted( i live on a hill, so i have to climb it everytime i leave the house) the higher the stall the better you short time will be becouse you make more power in the high rpm's, but if you get to high stall you get the problem i had with too many rpm's and run out of motor.

it all depends on how your going to drive to what you should get.

 

The hard thing to quantify is personal preference. What you may find perfectly acceptable may be intolerable to someone else and vice versa. I am sorry to be vague, but you need to take that into account.

But personal taste aside, you make a good point. Talking about stall speed without considering the torque curve of your own combo is ignorant. A stall speed a few hundred rpm below peak toruqe will give optimal 1/4m perfomance. Most street small blocks make peak torque in the 3,500-4,500rpm range. At the lower end of this range, that means a converter with a stall speed a bit over 3,000rpm would work well. That is quite streetable by almost any performance enthusiast's standards. At the higher end, you are talking about a converter stalling over 4,000rpm. This is going to be appraoching the limit of what most people would find tolerable. My current combo true stalls at ~3,800 with the nitrous off. I think most people would not have a problem with how it drives.

I am always glad to get together to BS about cars.

Rich Krause

 

Richard, I have a question. I have a stock '95 Z28. The peak torque is 325 pounds at 2000 RPM. I have a new 2000 stall converter in the rebuilt tranny. Is that good? Bad?

 

AFAIK, peak torque on a stock LT1 is 2,400rpm. When I referred to 3,500-4,500 as the range for peak torque, I was referring to modified motors. A 2,000 stall should be good for a stock motor.

Rich

 

rskrause, thanx for ur opinion.

i also have another question due to some facts i was told.
when i try to powerbrake my car, it only goes up to around 1800 to 1900 before the tires start spinning. does that mean my true stall is around the lower t 2000's, instead of the listed 2500 stall? is that a sign of a good or bad stall or just a stall that doesn't stall at it correct speed, or something else? i know u are going to want to know what i have so the list is below

dacco 2500 stall w/ built up 4l60e (band, clutches, tranny cooler, transgo shift kit, servo, 3rd gear, drum, almost everything new) and k&n fipk, magnaflow cat-back. my tires are eagle hp's p245 50r 16's.

thanx for any reply's

 

Right right, cause the power curve changes with the mods. I read it was at 2000 RPM, but I could be wrong.

 

True Stall: The rpm the engine cannot exceed when the driveline is locked. The most accurate way to determine true stall is by locking First gear and Reverse with a transbrake and observing engine rpm at wide open throttle (WOT).

Flash Stall: The rpm the engine “flashes” to when launched from rest at WOT. A converter will often briefly flash to a higher rpm than its true stall speed.

Brake Stall: The rpm the engine cannot exceed with the brakes locked and the driveshaft not spinning. Brake stall isn’t usually an accurate measuring tool since the engine often overpowers the wheels before the true stall speed is reached.

Rich Krause