Ok, we're trying to install one of those SLP Zexel-Torsen take-out posi's into a '95 LT1 car that came w/ 3.42's and the auburn.
After seating the original ring gear and ABS ring and torqing the ring gear bolts to 85 ft-lbs we tried to slip in the center block in the posi. It wouldn't fit. Couldn't clear the ring gear teeth, needed about 1mm (or less). So we pried on it a little and tapped the block in place. This, however, was done while the posi was out of the car and no axles installed. It would be somewhat more difficult to remove that block if necessary. At this point we removed it by unbolting the ring gear. So we now go about and repeat this while installed in the car w/ the axles. The backlash was set at 0.006". Now the block is even harder to get in. It just won't go. With the ring teeth every so slightly in the way it won't go in straight. Won't clear the teeth and now the far, tapered edge of the block digs into the gears inside the posi. The only thing else I can think of is to try grinding the crap out of the block i.e. make the wedge shape of the other edge more narrow. Maybe it would then slip in. We tried installing the c-clips while the block was already in place and just scooting it forward to clear the clips. That doesn't even seem like it would work. when trying this the block doesn't slip out far enough before contacting the edges of the teeth and the axles don't have the room to push in and clear for the c-clip install. It seems to us the only way to do this is to completely remove/install the block to gain access to the axles and install the c-clips. Another individual commented that we should be able to install the clips with out totally removing the block i.e. it wouldn't have to clear the ring gear. I don't see this happening. As I said, we tried.
Anyone experience this?
Any commends/ ideas?


thanks

md

 

hmmmmm. Now I have done a a few times (replaced an auburn with a slp take-off) and never had an issue.

The block....doesn't go in until you have put the c-clips on the axles and seated them (pulled outward so the c-clip is in the case recess). The block should slide right in. It goes in only one way and be careful with the retaining bolt.

I have put 3.23s, 3.42s and 3.73 gears from richmond and GM on these diffs with no trouble. Maybe someone dropped the case at SLP and it's out of shape or something.

My torsen with 3.23s.....

http://www.tmanland.net/home/cars/torsen_073000.jpg

good luck.....

Did the car come with 3.42s stock, or could that be a 2-series auburn and those are the thicker gears offered by a few different companies. What's the diff code in the glove box...? GU5, GU2, etc....

 

The car is a stock 6-speed, so it came w/ the auburn and 3.42's from the factory. I don't know what the deal is. I called SLP and they weren't aware of anyone having this issue before. The only related problem I found was those who go to 4.11's and have trouble w/ the block clearing the ring gear. Seems people grind down on the block a little to alleviate the clearance to get it to slide in.
I think we may end up trying that. If it doesn't work then we'll have to put the crappy auburn back in.

 

When I put mine in I had 4.10s and it won't go in with them. I wasn't about to pay the $125 for their paddles to put in place of the block. I just put in a vise and grabbed the hack saw. I cut right down the middle and left a eyelet on each side for the retaining bolt. It only took about 15 minutes. Then you can put in your axels and retainers, pull out on your axels to seat the retainers out of the way, then slide in one half at a time. Should work slick.