I've got a single disc McLeod clutch in the car, and the clutch engagement/disengagement point is ON the floor. ALL THE WAY on the floor. I spoke with the previous owner, and he informed me that he had put in the clutch but with a resurfaced flywheel.

So, I'm about to tackle the oil pan gasket and rear main seal, and would like to shim the flywheel up a tad. This should in turn move the engagement point of the clutch up off the floor, correct??

If this is the case, what should I use and where should I get them (I.E. are there specific shims I need)??? Any specific thickness??

Also, would removing the tranny be a garage type job or should I take it to a place an hour away where I can use a lift???

 

Come on, someones got to have some sort of information. I've tried searching but am not coming up with anything useful.

 

I hate you didn't get a reply, but how did it turn out? Did a shim fix your problem?

 

I don't know what you'd shim, or where people got this notion. People always talk about this but never end up doing it. Think about it. When you have your flywheel surfaced, they deck everything, including the flat areas where your pressure plate bolt up. Since the ENTIRE FACE of your flywheel gets resurfaced, everything is still relative to everything else. Everything is still lined up, the flywheel is just a few thousandths thinner. I had a McLeod single disc in my car and had clutch engagements like you are describing. Turns out that the disc was bent. I got my money back from McLeod on warranty. You might want to jack up your car so the back tires are off teh ground, and run it in first gear with the clutch disengaged (pedal in). The tires shouldn't spin. Mine did.

 

Where do I get the notion? I've done it. Think about it? Yep, I've done that too. To be honest, I had your mentality for a while myself. Look just a hair broader though. When you have a flywheel surfaced, as you mentioned, everything is surfaced (including the mounting points). This moves the clutch disk and pressure plate towards the engine block by the amount that was removed from the flywheel. However, the clutch fork is bolted to the transmission. Moving everything a little closer to the block changes the initial angle of the clutch for a little. Does it do enough for a shim to make any difference at all? Heck if I know. I went with another clutch (same brand and type) when I put the shim in. With the first clutch, it engaged around mid-pedal. Second clutch and shim, it engages near the top of the pedal. Since there were two variables, I don't know for sure which on changed the engagement position. I was wanting some more input from others, which is why I replied to this thread.

 

I forgot to tell you what is shimmed. The shim goes in between the crank and flywheel.

 

Just out of curiosity, what size shim did you use between the crank and flywheel?

 

I haven't torn it down yet. I'm debating on shimming or just buying a brand new flywheel. I was having a hard time coming up with a stock flywheel thickness for a reference point for the proper shims to use.

 

I believe it was 0.045"

 

Just measure the thickness of your flywheel and subtract the difference of what the thickness of a new flywheel to find the correct shim thickness. People do it all the time with out problems …