Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

Removing a 4L60E

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Old May 14, 2007 | 08:50 PM
  #1  
Rob1997ta's Avatar
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Removing a 4L60E

Has Anyone removed a 4L60E trans and how hard was it?
Old May 14, 2007 | 08:59 PM
  #2  
windsma's Avatar
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im on day two. and i have only gotten out 3 bolts
i think ive broken both my wrists.

drop the k-member,
i listened to my father who said lets pull the engine out from the top. big mistake.
Old May 15, 2007 | 07:05 AM
  #3  
The Engineer's Avatar
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From: Moore Oklahoma
This is something I have a great deal of experience with. Step one, remove the drive-shaft, torque-arm mounting bracket and un-bolt the three TC-flywheel bolts. Then if you have a full exhaust system, you'll need to remove the cross-over tubes, or Y-Pipe. This will allow you to remove the rear cross member and tilt-down the rear of the transmission. Next remove the shifter linkage, dip-stick and tube, cooling lines and electrical connections.

Once the rear of the transmission is tilted down, you will now be able to see the bell-housing bolts. Use a long 36" extension and swivel-head socket to remove the bell-housing bolts (have a jack positioned to support the transmission). You may need a pry-bar to separate the transmission from the engine. Tilting the rear of the transmission and engine and the 36" extension is the secret to removing the bell-housing bolts.

WD

Last edited by The Engineer; May 18, 2007 at 04:36 PM.
Old May 15, 2007 | 06:32 PM
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Rob1997ta's Avatar
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Thank you.
Old May 16, 2007 | 12:09 PM
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TimChiaretto's Avatar
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From: Gardena, CA, USA
The other direction works too

I found that it was easier to get to the passenger side top bolt from the engine compartment. You can't see it but you can slip a hand with a wrench
down the back of the engine and get to that top bolt. You might even be able to get to the top bolt on the driver's side but fo rme the intercooler is in the way.
Old May 18, 2007 | 10:16 AM
  #6  
quasar 95 Formula's Avatar
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From: Spokane, WA
A4 R&r

When you put the new trans back in make sure you connect the cooler lines to the trans in the correct orientation and tighten them up before you get the trans all the way in place. The fittings are very difficult to get to when the trans is bolted up.

Mark the cooler lines before you disconnect them so you can easily get them where they belong upon reassembly.

I used a single piece 15mm swivel socket and that fit a lot better than the standard swivel and socket arrangement.

It took me about 3 hours to get the job done once I got the car in the air.
Old May 18, 2007 | 10:32 AM
  #7  
camarolvr69's Avatar
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From: San Diego, CA
not hard. just make sure you have a tranny jack and impact. You may or may not have to remove the y-pipe. I did not have to, I have a Pacesetter ORY. I did however remove the torque arm and tunnel crossmember. Good Luck.
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