topgun35

ive got a 97' z28 and it has a rear end howl that is always there but you can especially hear it when decelerating. its like a very dull whine. my mechanic said that there was a recall on the rear end, and thought that the noise was caused because of it. i called the chevy dealer and they said there was no recall for it. if anyone knows anything about the noise or the recall.

thanks

shoebox

Never heard of any recall for the rear end.

Capn Pete

If it's a true "whine" sound, then it's probably the gears. If it's more of a rough, metal-on-metal "howl", then it could be a bearing going bad ... I've had bad gears and a bad bearing in my car, so I know the two sounds, and they're distinguishable! If it's the gears, there's really not much that can be done (unless, perhaps, they're beginning to run out of spec, say if the crush sleeve / pinion are slacking off, allowing too much free play of the pinion). If it's a bearing, that's not "too" difficult to replace.

rskrause

Someone install aftermarket gears in it?

Rich

6SpdLT1Z

My '97 Z28 is whining. It could be a lot of different things. Your differental fluid could be low. Your pinion bearing could need replaced, your gears could be out of alignment or w/e. I thiink mine needs a pinion nut, and that set the gears out of alignment so I bought some 3.73s to put in when I have the nut fixed.

Mines just a light whine and doesn't really do it untill I'm doing 45+ mph

MustangEater82

mine is whining too.... I am not too worried about it, its been doing it for about a year. LOL

godspeed1976

The main cause of this howl (during deceleration) is worn pinion bearing that are damaged, or improperly setup. Poor lubrication is normally the reason this happens, but age plays a good part as well. Because it requires opening the rear differential to address it I recommend replacing all you can during that time to save yourself the trouble later or replacing other parts.

Here is a basic price list:

AUTOZONE
DURALAST Rear Rotor $15 x 2rotors: $30.00
Valuecraft Brake Fluid 32oz: $3.59
Costal 75w90 Gear Lube: $2.39qt x 3qt: $7.17
Wheel Bearing Grease $1.99 x 2: $3.98
PDQ U Joint: $10.99

GM Dealer
GM LSD Additive: $7.80

SUMMIT
T/A Girdle: $149.95
3.73 Ring and Pinion $139.95
Ratech Rebuild Kit: $122.39
VGXT Graphite metallic Rear Brake Pads: $19.50

http://www.keliente.com/gears1.htm is an excellent place for you to get the info on how to do this job.

teke184

have you had the rear end fluid changed recently?? if so was there LSD addative put in the lube?

could try just changing the fluids. probably wont eliminate it, but could reduce it some

OBE1 95Z28

The rotors suggested above will rust and look like hell in no time as they aren't zinc washed like the stock rotors. If you choose to go this route, you might want to mask them off and paint them with a high temp paint before mounting.

godspeed1976

Thanks for the info. I am going all out on my front breaks cross drilled and slotted etc, the rears I know dont get used much so they looked like a cheap alternative. I will make sure to get some Zinc rotors, they are not but a few dollars more.

metallicsniper

i wouldn't worry about the wine, turn the radio up drive that stock rear until it blows, or buy aftermarket. its not worth putting any money into that rear. I wouldn't even waste money on fluid.

godspeed1976

When he is stranded on the highway in the freezing weather across America, I am sure he will be glad he saved that $500 that could have fixed his problem that he asked for help with.

Yes a 12 bolt is stronger, so is a 9", but since we dont know how much power he has, its kinda silly to advise him to drop a $2500 12 bolt into what maybe a bone stock car that doesn't even get run down the track.