Rear Axel Strength
Rear Axel Strength
I currently own a stock 1995 z28 camaro, I was looking at buying a 1999 Camaro SS, one of the concerns i have is that it has 4.10 Gears and 425 Horsepower to the wheels, The differential work includes, G2 Differential Cover and Stud Kit, ACPT Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft. With all that, would the rear end be able to handle the horsepower and the 4.10 gears? If someone could give me some input that would be great thanks.
I've seen the axles break on the LS1 cars at higher HP levels, with sticky tires and a manual trans, high RPM clutch dumps, etc. With an automatic, you can probably get away with it, in the absence of shock loading. You din't say whether the 99 is an A4 or an M6.
But the 4.10 gear set is going to be the weak point. At that HP level, you are on borrowed time.... IF you run it with sticky tires. One of the magazines poured about $1,700 into a 7.5/7.625" 10-bolt, and when they got done spending all that money, they recommended if for no more that 450 (flywheel) HP with an automatic, and not at all for a manual trans.
Not to say it will definitely fail.... people have taken these cars into the 10's with a stock rear axle. Others have had them fail at stock HP levels on street tires. But with every added HP, you increase the odds that it's going to fail.
But the 4.10 gear set is going to be the weak point. At that HP level, you are on borrowed time.... IF you run it with sticky tires. One of the magazines poured about $1,700 into a 7.5/7.625" 10-bolt, and when they got done spending all that money, they recommended if for no more that 450 (flywheel) HP with an automatic, and not at all for a manual trans.
Not to say it will definitely fail.... people have taken these cars into the 10's with a stock rear axle. Others have had them fail at stock HP levels on street tires. But with every added HP, you increase the odds that it's going to fail.
They will help- you missed the point of Fred's post....
The stock axle isn't known to be strong by any means. Some seem to have had God himself holding the rear-end together while others blow it apart doing a burnout.
Manual and 315 tires will put additional strain on it- If all you are doing is street driving I would doubt you would have issue since your typical road doesn't provide enough traction for the tires to hook up enough to break things.
But like everyone will tell you- the 10-bolt is the weak link. And honestly if you are really concerned about it save your money for a 12 bolt or 9"- don't dump money into the 10 bolt.
The stock axle isn't known to be strong by any means. Some seem to have had God himself holding the rear-end together while others blow it apart doing a burnout.
Manual and 315 tires will put additional strain on it- If all you are doing is street driving I would doubt you would have issue since your typical road doesn't provide enough traction for the tires to hook up enough to break things.
But like everyone will tell you- the 10-bolt is the weak link. And honestly if you are really concerned about it save your money for a 12 bolt or 9"- don't dump money into the 10 bolt.
Ooooooppssss..... forgot to mention that my ACPT Heavy Duty (3.8") CF driveshaft failed while the car was being driven with a limp mode tune from the engine shop to the body shop. Took me 3 months and huge arguments to get my money back from ACPT, and they wouldn't refund shipping.
LOL start saving for a 12 bolt or an S60 now...
I blew mine out w/ just bolt-ons, an auto trans, and street tires.
Took two teeth off the pinion on the richmond 3.73s that were always quiet, good pattern, etc.
Not hammering it in 1st gear and not "shocking" the drivetrain (launching, powershifting) is the best advice if you want to try to make it last a while. A good suspension that keeps the rearend properly located and minimizes wheelhop won't hurt, either.
I blew mine out w/ just bolt-ons, an auto trans, and street tires.
Took two teeth off the pinion on the richmond 3.73s that were always quiet, good pattern, etc.
Not hammering it in 1st gear and not "shocking" the drivetrain (launching, powershifting) is the best advice if you want to try to make it last a while. A good suspension that keeps the rearend properly located and minimizes wheelhop won't hurt, either.
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