Question on carrier preload and shimming
Question on carrier preload and shimming
So i'm in the process of putting in 3.73s, its a PITA. I've already broke the ABS reluctor ring (new one comes in tomorrow). Well, I'm trying to get my backlash/carrier preload. After I installed the new bearings, this carrier is a super tight fit with original .233, .247 shims. I have to hammer the crap out of the shims to get it to fit. With the master kit, it likes a .236 on driver side, but if i try to put .244 in the passenger side its just about impossible. The thin shims start bending.
Now for my question. Can i take off .010 off the passanger side for ease of installment? I'm worried about the original shimming being too tight and burning out my new bearings. I'm pretty tired of prying the **** out of this carrier getting it in/out. How can I tell if I've gone too loose?
Thanks,
James
Now for my question. Can i take off .010 off the passanger side for ease of installment? I'm worried about the original shimming being too tight and burning out my new bearings. I'm pretty tired of prying the **** out of this carrier getting it in/out. How can I tell if I've gone too loose?
Thanks,
James
I never use the old ones, I stack shims out of the kit.
get your backlash right and when you turn the nut on the yoke it should be no more than about 35 in lb. rotating tq.
thats how I have alway done it.
get marking compound and check you patern too
get your backlash right and when you turn the nut on the yoke it should be no more than about 35 in lb. rotating tq.
thats how I have alway done it.
get marking compound and check you patern too
I don't know what kind of tools you have at your disposal but I made a spreader to pry the housing open a little and it allowed the carrier to just slide in and out. I made it out of 2 pieces of bar scrap and welded a short stub in the middle of each one that would fit in the holes on either side of the rearend housing, just outside the main caps. Then I welded some threaded rod to the top and bottom of each bar with a tapped pipe between them. All you have to do is crank on that and it'll open the housing up a few thousands allowing ease of installation and removal of the carrier.
It sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't, and if you plan on doing this ever again it is well worth the effort. I am not sure but I would assume that you could probably also purchase something like this. Good luck.
It sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't, and if you plan on doing this ever again it is well worth the effort. I am not sure but I would assume that you could probably also purchase something like this. Good luck.
I've marked the gears at .007 backlash, and I definatly need to step the pinion shim down. Stock was .030. I'm gonna try .020 and see how that does. I'm definately not going to waste time trying to make/buy a case spreader because I will never do this again! If this dam thing fails, i'm buying a stock 10bolt and leaving it alone. Live and learn I guess.
Is it gonna hurt deleting .010 shimming though? Like i said, this carrier is ridiculous tight with stock shim sizing totaling .480. That's why I wanted to go with .470.
By 35in/lbs, do you mean with the carrier installed? I wonder if harbor freight has a inch pound sweeper?
Thanks,
James
Is it gonna hurt deleting .010 shimming though? Like i said, this carrier is ridiculous tight with stock shim sizing totaling .480. That's why I wanted to go with .470.
By 35in/lbs, do you mean with the carrier installed? I wonder if harbor freight has a inch pound sweeper?
Thanks,
James
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jasonduaine
LS1 Based Engine Tech
3
Mar 7, 2015 09:44 AM
95z_28_camaro_4_Ivan
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
2
Dec 19, 2014 08:48 PM
Hurin
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
4
Dec 13, 2014 07:38 PM



