Im recently bough a 4l80e/converter but do not have the standalone computer,
The TCI unit is about ~700ish.
I have a few other things in mind that i need and i dont really want to spend the money.

Car will be a weekend driver, def gonna hit the track and do some highway "cruises"

Whats ur opinion on going manual valvebody? Advantages, disadvantages?

def looking to run this at the track and play with the shift points a bit but have no software to do so....

thanks
bobbyd

 

Why a 4L80E?


Frank
CPT

 

y not? The tranny is already built for some serious power. I have plans coming soon and have even bigger ones later and ive never had andy good experiences nor seen anything good come out of a 4l60e. I know u back up ur tranny builds and even continually argue about them but i dont need that in this thread.

The question is simple. As stated above im looking for an opinion on whether i should do a manual valvebody or buy the TCI controller? Looking for teh advantages and dissadvantages of each.

thanks
bobbyd

 

I was just wondering why anyone would want to give up 2/10's.

Just make sure you save all your '60E parts for when you get disgusted with the '80E. The '80E has a tremendous amount of design flaws.

I'm just trying to prevent people from wasting ALOT of money and time to make all the modifications neccessary to install one of these things. MOST end up swapping back to a '60E at some point.

Frank
CPT

 

Bobby, what are you using to shift this thing? I was wondering if a B&M Mega shifter would work with a manual shift option.

-Dustin-

 

Subscribing...

I'd also really like to hear Pro's Con's, advantages/disadvantages to going to the manual valve-body. I'm in a similar position. Car that sees race abuse, yet I cruise it frequently.

So, I hope somebody answer's your question.

 

i went with the TCI unit. So no manual valvebody for me

with manual valvebody u can hold any gear u like at any RPM. U can shift when u want. So changing shiftpoints is as easy as just shifting lol

 

Well with some searching I have found that Transgo and a few other companies make Full Manual shift packages for these transmissions. With the addition of these and a good converter like Yank or Vigilante can hold quite a bit of power. Loads of LS1 guys are onboard with the 4L80E. Many 1000rwhp+ guys running these tranny's which makes daily driving not only comfortable, but less stressful on parts than a 4L60E.

I'll be making a complete write up on my experiences.

-Dustin-

 

Dustin what exactly are you doing?

 

Probably going to run a stock low mileage 4L80E with a full manual kit and a Vigilante 3400-3600 converter. I'll see how it does behind the CC306 with bolt on's and 3.73's. Tear it down this winter, understand the guts, and perhaps built it up a bit. Then build up the bottom end to a forged 383. I'll also be throwing on some 285cfmI/195cfmE stock ported heads and maybe go bigger on the cam [I just like the CC306 alot]. I'll start next season NA then gradually move to a N2O shot going bigger and bigger.

I could go TH400 for cheap, but the 4L80E is oh so goddamn tempting.

-Dustin-

 

I went with a full rebuilt 4L80E and the TCI controller. 4-4200 stall. I have a full Scat rotating assembly (350 specs) going in and 2 stud mains. The GM847 is being added. I have a 125 shot at the moment but i plan on upping it to ~200 next year when i get more cash. My stock heads are ported with 2.00, 1.56 valves, Intake side should flow in the 270ish range. All going through a Dana 60 with 3.73s.

Car should move this year. I went on a budget with the shortblock considering i had to drop all that money on the rear and tranny.

 

Don't take this the wrong way guys...but your leaving alot on the table with your drivetrasin loss


There are fast cars with "weaker" trans....... I have seen cars cut 1.20's w/a 200r trans.....I run a th350, rotating loss= H.P.