i have a 96 lt1 6 speed manual, we replaced the clutch, we had the fly wheel resurfaced, and took off 25 thousands, so we bought a 50 thousands shim for it, we got it all put back together and when i push the clutch in and put it into gear it makes like a hissing noise, what is this noise?!?!

 

Not enough information to make a diagnosis... tell and be more descriptive of the sound. Unless water is dripping and frying on the exhaust no hissing noise should be coming from the clutch area...cold you describe it as like the disc is rubbing on something????

 

yes thats what it sounds like, kinda like the clutch is maybe spinning and making that noise, but it only makes the noise when i put it into gear

 

Ok here is a better description of what the problem is. But first I have a question. The rod in the actuater has a plastic bushing on the end of one end but not the other. I didn't notice one when we took it apart. I'm assuming there would be on on both ends as they seat into metal on both ends. I was thinking maybe since it's gone that shortened the rod and therfore allowing less travel. Does that sound right. Kinda a long winded question.

Here's what the car is doing. We have all four wheels off of the ground.

1. With engine NOT running everything shifts ok.
2. With engine runningmost gears are difficult to engage.
3. After you put the car in gear and press the clutch all the way to the ground the tires still turn.
4. With car running the tranny will not go into reverse.
5. As soon as the petal leaves the floor the tranny engages.

p.s the car is a 1996 Z28, LT1 with six speed manual. We replaced the clutch plates and pressure plate with a set bought from Auto Zone. (Dura Last) Had the flywheel resurfaced 25K's and installed a 50K's shim.

 

Can someone please help? Thanks.

 

IMHO, FROM THE SOUNDS OF IT - AND WITH THE MACHINING THAT has been done. Your cluthch is out of adjustment. If it engages as soon as it comes off the floor you need more play in it . The clutch should engage after a half inch or more not imediately. The clutch simply needs to be adjusted. The sound is probably the constantly engaged throw out bearing when it is in gear with the clutch all the way down. SO IT IS SPINNING AGAINST THE CLUTCH AND WILL SOON WEAR out IF NOT AdJUSTED SOON. GET A GOOD CLUTCH MECHANIC AND IT MAY WORK OUT FINE.

 

Thanks for the input. It's a hydraulic clutch and has no adjustment. I've installed plenty of clutches with no problems but this is the first hydraulic. This car is frustrating everything we have done seems to be a pain in the butt. I think design engineer's should have to get their hands dirty once and awhile so they wouldn't build such a jacked up design. Does anyone have any advice on what the issue might be.

I realize that the clutch is out of adjustment, with no adjustment how to u adjust. Did I install the right shim I mentioned earlier?? What about the slop on the fork I mentioned????

Thanks

 

Oh yeah what the heck is IMHO?? Sorry i'm a little old and slow..

 

"in my humble (or honest) opinion"

 

This clutch problem is all about clearances; the fact that it is hydrolic only omits conventional adjustments. ..here is the latest from a major performance clutch manufacturer: yes they are aware of the prblem its rare and nobody seems to know why they recomend you take the fork pivot stud and rework it so it will screw farther into the bell houseing ~ this will pull the clutch fork towards the rear of the car giving you the clearence you need. Then, you need to be able to screw it in approx 50 to 60 thousandths more than stock hope this does it for you...also the new assembly is probably thicker than stock, end to end. The shim may be a problem. Keep decreasing the assembly's length until it is adjusted and works. If not take it to someone who specializes in this area.

 

Everything fixed now, thank's for the help. It was a combination of a few things. Very frustrating. It was a combination of three different things.

1. Shim was to thick not allowing for full travel of fork. Don't put larger shim than the re-surface.
2. Bushing missing out of one end of push rod in actuator.
3. Had to grind T-Bolt 60K's to allow tighter fitting pivot point to gain travel.

Thanks for the help thought I would never find the answer. Anyone running into this problem has any questions can e-mail me at larry.pyle@yahoo.com