i feel like my car is not pulling as hard as it should and the engangement of the clutch doesn't feel like its really grabbing. however the rpm's don't really climb noticeably faster than the speedometer. the car should be pulling harder with the cam and tune but it isn't really. anyways, can the clutch be slipping when i get on the gas without the rpms shooting up? the car is totally tuned up with taylor 8mm's, ngk tr55's, freshly oiled filter, new head gaskets etc. and new pcmforless tune.
edit: stock clutch, car has 133,000 mi

 

can a mod move this to drivetrain forum please.

 

I would say with 133K on the original clutch, you did pretty good. It wouldn't hurt to replace it. Usually when a clutch slips, the engine revs but you're not moving too fast.

 

when mine went it didn't slip at all or rev faster, just once in a while grinded. I took it out and the rivets were startingto wear on the flywheel. Also my clutch didn't engage until the very top of its travel, with the new one it engages probably 40% past the floor, sounds like the clutch is on its way out, mine started grindig after the cam install, so with yours the extra power is probably to much to handle.

 

Yes

 

I had the same problem with my '76. 430hp-stock clutch=lots of broken pieces. I would suggest investing into a Stage III Centerforce clutch pak for the simple reason that if you decide to modify the engine to crayzee proportions, you'll still have a clutch that will take the extra power and actually enjoy having the crap kicked out of it.

 

if i buy a shop manual is the clutch something i can do in the driveway in a day? any special tools needed? thanks for the help.

 

Yes with a tranny jack and get the whole car off the ground if you can. Access to a lift is Ideal.

 

any special tools? i have a jack, lots of stands, and plenty of your average tools. do you have to reusurface flywheel? if so how much and where do you take the flywheel to get resurfaced??

 

I haven't done my car yet but I don't think you need any special tools. The flywheel, like a brake disc, should be resurfaced if it shows unusual wear.

 

You should always get your flywheel resurfaced every time you change your clutch disk. The reason for this is that the flywheel may not be a true flat surface anymore due to heat and wear. It may be slightly warped, or convex or concave. It costs maybe $40 to have it done and it will save you many headaches later. You don't want premature wear on your new clutch do you?

 

Also, I forgot. Ah yes, purchase a can of Brake Kleen to spray on the flywheel once you get it re-mounted. This will help to remove any grease, or oil from your fingers while you were changing your clutch. The clutch will slip or ruin if you do not do this.

 

Right, and I read a few posts where some recommend changing the rear seal on the engine and front seal on the trans. And definitely change the throwout bearing and install a new pilot bushing.

 

I think that most kits come with a throw-out bearing, but don't come with a pilot bearing. They're pretty inexpensive though, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. You may as well change/check as many seals and bearings as you can while you have it apart. You also know about the break-in period for a new clutch? Drive normally and don't over-rev the motor for approximately 250 miles/50km's or a week of normal driving. Doing this will help to 'seat' the clutch in it's permanent position. Good luck with the install and take your time.