I just got my trans back in with my new Ram Powergrip HD/full LE2 setup. Here a little info that may help out down the road for someone.

Here's aprox what's needed:
-sockets-1/2", 9/16", 15mm, and a few smaller for the U joint caps
-ratchet
-a 3/8" universal socket
-about 30-36" of extensions to get to the top 4 bolts on the
trans/bellhousing
-air tools help!!
-new clutch and PP(I chose a Ram powergrip HD-well see how it is??)
-While your at it, replace the trans mount.
-floor jack
-an atachment for a trans to go on the floor jack would be nice, I did not
have one.
-replace the pilot bearing-I went with a roller for $18 at advanced auto
-I had a local machine shop turn my stock flywheel for $30. It looks good.

Tips:
-I tied up my stock torque arm with a HD tie wrap to the bracket for the brake lines that run near it-DO NOT RUN A TIE WRAP OR ANY OTHER HANGER AROUND ANY OF THESE LINES!! THE BRACKET ONLY!!

-removing pilot bearing- I could not get mine out with the tool I rented even though in theory it looked like it would work. I ended up beating it out with a hammer and a sharp chisle until it cracked into pieces.

-Don't fill the trans up to much as it will add weight and most likely spill out. I left the drive shaft in. I did replace the stock u-joints brute force(I'll save that install for another thread). Once you get the trans all in, I am wondering if you can just take the plug out and add fluid thru the top of the shifter before you put the shifter on. Maybe?? When it leaks out the hole it's full. And also be sure to use Dex III. I used Vavoline's brand of Dexcool III.

-Definitely remove the trans first then the bellhousing and PP, clutch and flywheel. Reinstall in the same order. It makes more sense to install the Clutch setup onto the trans first but I don't think that you could ever get to the bolts on the trans/engine (with the heads on the vehicle) to bolt up the final assembly to the engine. Also, when installing the new PP, it should have a paint mark on it, mine(Ram) was yellow. Align this with the X mark on the flywheel. This has to do with the balancing for some reason. It doesn't make alot of sense to me, because the rear crank/flywheel is "externally balanced" from GM so in theory it shound not matter??

-I have read posts that have said to manually compress the clutch fork to help the disc/trans/pilot bearing to align. Yea right! There is no way any mortal man can do this as far as I could tell. This is controlled by hydrulics and the PP has a 2800lb clamping force???

-Inserting the tail shaft, AHHH! here's the fun part. After searching for a while I found most directions, tips and install hints on this topic to say to just, "slide the trans in" As if it was that easy!! Ha! My A$$! It's a PITA!! I spend 2 evenings after work screwing around with it and I could not get it the last 1/2-5/8" in. @#*$&!!!! Maybe it works out easy for some, but not for me(Also, I have been working on cars on and off for over 20 years so it wasen't an experience issue??). After uninstalling and reinstalling a few different times and taking multiple measurement on shaft penetration, I could not get the dam thing in. I tried to reset the disc to perfectly center a few time and still nothing!!

Well here are the best hints that I think can be provided in the trans shaft alignment for final bolt trans/bellhousing bolt install:
-Make sure the trans is in nuetral
-put a quality high rpm grease on the bearing and the shaft tip, I used mobil 1lube on the shaft and a white lithium grease on the splines-very lightly!!
-Install the flywheel, disc, PP, and bellhousing(torque all).
-Get the trans up and in as far as you can(1/2" out for me) and then install the slave cylinder as much as you can. Now to get this slave cylinder in, you must compress the rod/piston inward, and hurry to get it onto the 2 studs and get the nuts on before the rod comes back out. It is do-able. At this point install as many trans bolts as you can- loosly. Once you get the slave cylinder on and as tight as possible have a friend press down slowly on the clutch pedal. As this is happening, wiggle the tail shaft and start tightening a bolt on each side. You should see the alignment pins start to slide in. If there is any resistance, back off and try to readjust. Mine with a little wiggling, slid in relatively easy and you could almost feel it slide into the pilot bearing. Once it is close, continue to tighten down the slave clyinder setup and then the trans bolts in an opposite pattern, side to side until the 2 cases are flush and tight. Then tighten and torque as many as you can. The top 4 bolts will require 30 or so inches of extensions to tighten.

And the last tip that is easier said than done. When you get frustrated, slow down take a breath, and let your arms get some strength back. Many a problem, I have resolved by walking away and coming back with a clearer, calmer head. Also, continue to read car magazines, they are full of good info and help to motivate me on my Mods!

Good luck!! Hope this helps and saves time.