Manually shifting 4L60E?
Manually shifting 4L60E?
Well my tranny went out last Friday so now I have it parked and I'm ripping everything apart(rear end is out so far). I think what caused it was high temps and manually shifting it. Is it really bad to manually up and downshift the 4L60E? Like when racing from a 20mph roll, I will drop it down into 1st, mash the gas and immediately upshift either into 2nd,3rd, or D. I have also been downshifting a lot lately. Just can't get enough of that GMMG exhaust while downshifting. I already picked up a performance built 4L60E and would like to know before I **** this one up too.
I know heat is the enemy and I have a Griffin radiator (waiting to be installed with everything else) with the tranny cooler built in. Is that enough or should I use that and another tranny cooler or just bypass the radiator all together?
Also what kind of stall should I be looking for. I'm building a procharged 383 with around 700rwhp and it'll be mostly street driven.
My new tranny is supposed to be identical to the Pro Race Rebuild that CPT offers.
I know heat is the enemy and I have a Griffin radiator (waiting to be installed with everything else) with the tranny cooler built in. Is that enough or should I use that and another tranny cooler or just bypass the radiator all together?
Also what kind of stall should I be looking for. I'm building a procharged 383 with around 700rwhp and it'll be mostly street driven.
My new tranny is supposed to be identical to the Pro Race Rebuild that CPT offers.
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SpraydZ
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Jun 7, 2016 01:44 PM



