Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

Keep The A4 OR Swap M6?

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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 04:40 PM
  #1  
turnin20s's Avatar
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Keep The A4 OR Swap M6?

Just as the title says, in you opinion which is better? I know that if I swap to a M6 I will break the rear end alot and end up having to switch to a 12 bolt. I know my A4 is going to take a crap on me shortly after my motor is finished up (its just my luck) but I can't afford to have it built right now.

The M6 would be a little cheaper to swap, but I think its going to be a big headach and I don't think I want to mess with that. If I keep the A4 I will be sending it to CPT and thats the direction that I'm leaning towards right now.

What do you guys think? I know this is going to be a really bias topic, but have you switched from one to the other and wished that you hadn't? Or have one and wished you had the other?

Sorry for the confusing post, but I love driving a M6 car, but I love proving the guys that say that an auto car is slower wrong.
Old Apr 4, 2007 | 05:45 PM
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I properly done M6 Conversion will not be cheaper than having your tranny built by someone like CPT. If you can get a kit that includes a used T56 and used clutch it may be cheaper than a rebuilt auto. Conversion kits are typically 1.5-1.8k with all used components and no warranty. A good tranny build from CPT would run you about 1.4k plus shipping (if applicable). IMO, if cost is an issue, stick with the auto. If cost isn't an issue and you really want an M6, do the conversion.
Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by matLT1
I properly done M6 Conversion will not be cheaper than having your tranny built by someone like CPT. If you can get a kit that includes a used T56 and used clutch it may be cheaper than a rebuilt auto. Conversion kits are typically 1.5-1.8k with all used components and no warranty. A good tranny build from CPT would run you about 1.4k plus shipping (if applicable). IMO, if cost is an issue, stick with the auto. If cost isn't an issue and you really want an M6, do the conversion.
But you have to figure a built CPT tranny is $1.4K plus a $650+ converter. I have been looking and finding t56s with belhousing, pedels, and flywheel for around $800. Then add a center force clutch for $400? and a crossmember $40, and my brother works at an auto parts store so I get a pretty good discount on hydrolics. So it might be a little cheaper for me to do M6 swap, but I'm just worried about breaking my rear end or other drivetrain parts with the M6 since they are alot harder on hard parts than the A4. And like you said there isn't any warrenty on the used tranny either.

Right now I would like to keep the A4, but everytime I drive my brothers Cobra it makes me want an M6.

Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:27 PM
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If you drag then stick with the A4/converter set up.
Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:34 PM
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If you can find the parts for cheap that is cool, I would be a little concerned about how long a T56 for $800 would last though. These trannies aren't always a cheap rebuild. If you have your heart set on the conversion, by all means go for it. Just be aware that some extra expenses can occur.

Looking at your Sig, I wouldn't be too concerned about the 10-bolt. Just keep it on street tires and don't do anything foolish (6k clutch dump..etc).
Old Apr 4, 2007 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by matLT1
If you can find the parts for cheap that is cool, I would be a little concerned about how long a T56 for $800 would last though. These trannies aren't always a cheap rebuild. If you have your heart set on the conversion, by all means go for it. Just be aware that some extra expenses can occur.

Looking at your Sig, I wouldn't be too concerned about the 10-bolt. Just keep it on street tires and don't do anything foolish (6k clutch dump..etc).
HAHA yeah, but these rears aren't known for their strength and the t56 is alot harder on it than the A4. But like I said, I know exactly what you are saying about a cheap used tranny.

I think I may stay with the A4, I think the M6 may be more than I want to get into. How hard is the swap? I'm sure there are tons of little things that come up doing the swap and thats whats making me want to stay auto.

Thanks for your insite, I really appreciate it
Old Apr 5, 2007 | 06:56 AM
  #7  
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I just did the M6 swap myself last summer, and it has definitely cost a lot more than had I just gotten the 4L60E rebuilt! It initially cost me around ~$3k CDN$ to get everything, whereas a built A4 + converter would have been ~$2500.

BUT, since you can't road-test something ~3000 miles away over the internet, I got a tranny with a bad 2nd gear, and some worn synchros. I JUST got the tranny back into the car after rebuilding it, for a cost of ~$1100 CDN$ .

I swapped because I've gotten into doing road racing (Solo 1) and the A4 was just NOT up to that task. Otherwise, if I had have stuck with drag racing like I've always liked, then a BUILT 4L60E + ~3500 converter was going to be my next step.

Don't do the swap for the wrong reasons. Keep in mind, unless you are a very "gifted" driver, all your competitiveness and consistancy goes out the window trying to drag race an M6 . I've seen a few LS1's and LT1's at the track running much slower than they should, because they're M6 (where I've been cutting low 13's with the A4).
Old Apr 5, 2007 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Capn Pete
I just did the M6 swap myself last summer, and it has definitely cost a lot more than had I just gotten the 4L60E rebuilt! It initially cost me around ~$3k CDN$ to get everything, whereas a built A4 + converter would have been ~$2500.

BUT, since you can't road-test something ~3000 miles away over the internet, I got a tranny with a bad 2nd gear, and some worn synchros. I JUST got the tranny back into the car after rebuilding it, for a cost of ~$1100 CDN$ .

I swapped because I've gotten into doing road racing (Solo 1) and the A4 was just NOT up to that task. Otherwise, if I had have stuck with drag racing like I've always liked, then a BUILT 4L60E + ~3500 converter was going to be my next step.

Don't do the swap for the wrong reasons. Keep in mind, unless you are a very "gifted" driver, all your competitiveness and consistancy goes out the window trying to drag race an M6 . I've seen a few LS1's and LT1's at the track running much slower than they should, because they're M6 (where I've been cutting low 13's with the A4).
I know exactly what you are saying. I just hate hearing from all of the guys around here that the auto is slower and their 5 speed mustang can take it, or "why didn't you buy the 6 speed car? You know their faster right?"

I'm not trying to build a drag car by any means, but I will do some track days for fun. But I would like to do some auto-x but the closest track is something like 4 hours from me.

I think I will keep the auto for now, and mabye later on when I get bored some winter day I'll start a M6 swap, but I know its going to be more expensive than I can plan for, but thats the way it goes with pretty much anything.

Thanks for the insite guys, I really appreciate it
Old Apr 5, 2007 | 01:43 PM
  #9  
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the tranny is supposed to have about 65k miles on it, but I never got to test drive it.
This is what is steering me away from the M6 swap.

But you are right, I love driving a manual car. It makes me feel more in control of what the car does. But on the other hand I like driving an auto car since its just easier and you don't have to down shift or hold the clutch in at a stop light, but you know what I'm saying.

I will see if I get bored with the auto and if I do it will get an M6, but I need to save my money before I even think about this swap.

Thanks
Old Apr 5, 2007 | 04:38 PM
  #10  
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May '07 GM High Tech Performance mag they did a t-56 swap into an ls1 camaro. It had a complete parts list for what they used. With a T56rebuilds.com trans, Spec 3+ and spec aluminum flywheel, plus other parts, came to a total of $4657.

I've been driving sticks all my life (civic, 98 v6 firebird, jetta vr6), but the A4 is going to be great for me b/c it's a daily driver right now. I'm still going to do a whole build on it (383,100hp shot, etc.), but I'd rather spend $1400 and know I'm getting a great product with CPT's top of the line rebuild and be done with it than not knowing what I'll be getting myself into or waiting to buy parts up as I bargain shop.
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