installing a 700R4/4l60 in a 94 formula
installing a 700R4/4l60 in a 94 formula
What all do I need to do this? I am sick of the computer controlled shifting all together. I know someone with one that I can get and rebuild just need to know what else I need to do this. Also I have 3.73s so I will need to know what parts I need to correct the speedometer.
you will still need to tune your pcm for the speedometer, and have all the trans diagnostics removed from the pcm
and a new throttle body for the 7004r tv cable
and figure a way to lock up the tcc
just get the 4l60e built correctly
.
and a new throttle body for the 7004r tv cable
and figure a way to lock up the tcc
just get the 4l60e built correctly
.
A 4l60e built correctly and tuned properly will do everything you want the only real thing your doing is swapping easily programable softward to TV cables and govenors that still will have to be ajusted if your trying to hit a particular shift point but its much messer and involves more trial and error. If your really tired of the electronics why not just put a full manual valve body on the 4L60E ?
IDK, maybe its just luck, but I have two friends/customers who have lots of problems with there 60e's. both have bought from venders on here and still had reliability issues. one is a high power car that street drives/races only. almost never from a stop or at at track, and one never made it to a track w/o problems till lately. his problems seemed to be more pc tune related though.
the high powered (sc LS1) car keeps breaking stuff inside the trans. I never had any problem with mine EXCEPT the tv cable adj. is weird on mine (T56->700r4 swap) and I had to shorten the cable to get the line press. to shift at the right points and feel firm. not hard like a shift kit, but just barely firm. I know a shift kit would work and possibly fix my problem. but it drives great. if I try to adj. the cable any shorter, it'll actualy stop the throttle from opening all the way. so its staying where its at I guess. the normal way of adj. the cable wasnt even driveable it was soo far off.
anyways if you got a line on a good one, then go for it. the conv. is the same I think. someone correct me if Im wrong. the dshaft is the same. you'll need the throttle body and bracket off a 93 car, or aftermarket tbodies mostly have the extra arm for the tv cable on it. but like I said it'll need some tweaking cause the geometry isnt the same for some reason. and as for the speedo gear, you'll need to buy new reluctor ring (like $5 from dealer) and you can reuse your electronic speedo sending unit in your new 700r4. it'll go right in. and yes you'll need to have an auto tune, and have all the functions/codes deleted out. however it'll still use the a4 pulse count for the speedo. nothing else to it. your shifter/wiring should all be the same except that big harness that used to plug into the trans will not be needed. oh, if you want to use the lockup you'll need to rewire that into a new connector end and either go to a manual switch (thats what I did) or wire it to the harness. but the tuner will have to figure out how to make that work w/o all the other stuff being used. IDK about that part.
the high powered (sc LS1) car keeps breaking stuff inside the trans. I never had any problem with mine EXCEPT the tv cable adj. is weird on mine (T56->700r4 swap) and I had to shorten the cable to get the line press. to shift at the right points and feel firm. not hard like a shift kit, but just barely firm. I know a shift kit would work and possibly fix my problem. but it drives great. if I try to adj. the cable any shorter, it'll actualy stop the throttle from opening all the way. so its staying where its at I guess. the normal way of adj. the cable wasnt even driveable it was soo far off.
anyways if you got a line on a good one, then go for it. the conv. is the same I think. someone correct me if Im wrong. the dshaft is the same. you'll need the throttle body and bracket off a 93 car, or aftermarket tbodies mostly have the extra arm for the tv cable on it. but like I said it'll need some tweaking cause the geometry isnt the same for some reason. and as for the speedo gear, you'll need to buy new reluctor ring (like $5 from dealer) and you can reuse your electronic speedo sending unit in your new 700r4. it'll go right in. and yes you'll need to have an auto tune, and have all the functions/codes deleted out. however it'll still use the a4 pulse count for the speedo. nothing else to it. your shifter/wiring should all be the same except that big harness that used to plug into the trans will not be needed. oh, if you want to use the lockup you'll need to rewire that into a new connector end and either go to a manual switch (thats what I did) or wire it to the harness. but the tuner will have to figure out how to make that work w/o all the other stuff being used. IDK about that part.
Any trans can give problems of course. The 7004 though is not one bit stronger than the 4L60E in fact internally they are nearly twins, Now its true that tuning is very important and can take some time to figure out when theres and issue but at least its on a laptop and not under the car. The 700r4 requires pan drops , gov Pulls and is trial and error each time till you get what you want. Personally I would stick with the 60E and as mentioned if your really tired of electronics and tuning , Go full manual valve body then tuning is a thing of the past .
yeah I know they are almost the same inside. I think what the real difference is 2 things. 1 is the tuneing has to be right to get a good life out of it and proper operation. and the part that I think hurts there reliability and longevity are also ALL the electronic parts in there. soo many more things to go wrong in the 60E. wadya think?
and the 700r4 wouldnt require any pan drops if you did a manual valve body to it too.
only reason i didnt do that is cause im selling the car. and I knew it back when I had the trans put together for me. ohwell.
and the 700r4 wouldnt require any pan drops if you did a manual valve body to it too.
only reason i didnt do that is cause im selling the car. and I knew it back when I had the trans put together for me. ohwell.
Full manual the 4L60E and the 700R4 would be identical except the 4L60E could use a modulator for presure controls so the gears would not slam at every throttle opening I don think the 700R4 could.Its fixed presure .
yeah I know they are almost the same inside. I think what the real difference is 2 things. 1 is the tuneing has to be right to get a good life out of it and proper operation. and the part that I think hurts there reliability and longevity are also ALL the electronic parts in there. soo many more things to go wrong in the 60E. wadya think?
and the 700r4 wouldnt require any pan drops if you did a manual valve body to it too.
only reason i didnt do that is cause im selling the car. and I knew it back when I had the trans put together for me. ohwell.
and the 700r4 wouldnt require any pan drops if you did a manual valve body to it too.
only reason i didnt do that is cause im selling the car. and I knew it back when I had the trans put together for me. ohwell.Thread
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