having a the typical problems, burning clutches, broke a couple of sprags, low line pressure.

what upgraded parts can make this work? billet servo? anything?

 

There are so many areas that need attention in the 4L60E. In general, the transmission suffers from a few weak designs, weak parts, lack of apply pressure, and holding power.

If you're trying to use the SKF style "single cage" input sprag, you'll never get it to last. They're just junk. Look into a good Borg Warner "dual cage" 29 element sprag.

We use the best 2-4 bands available, which is the RED LINED Alto "wide" band. The addition of a Fairbanks billet 2nd servo and Sonnax "dual piston" 4th servo will help keep the band alive.

We also use the best 3-4 clutches available, which are the Raybestos "Z-Pack". A stock style 3-4 clutch/steel arrangement just won't hold up to the abuse we see these transmissions go through. You'll never keep 3-4 clutches in anything if you're reusing the "load release" springs that push the top and bottom pressure plates apart.

There are numerous modifications we do to provide adequate pressure in the higher RPM ranges, where the stock 4L60E falls way short.

We've found the answers to every weak area of the 4L60E. We don't have any of the typical problems you're referring to. Who are you having build your transmission? Unfortunately, there aren't many of us in the country who really know these transmissions. Even more unfortunate is the fact that too many people think they do

I build automatic transmissions for a living. I'm sending my car to someone else to do my roll cage. I paid someone else to paint my car. I do this because I know that the people doing these things are professionals in their area. I also know that trying to save money by doing these things myself could end up costing me more time and money in the long run. If you're having someone else build your transmission for you, he should know what parts it needs. If he doesn't, maybe you're having the wrong person build it. If you're trying to do it yourself, I can't fault you for that. Are you really saving money, though? I've posted many times on here a detailed list of the parts we use in all of our rebuilds. If you go by that list, don't short cut anything. If you're trying to build this yourself, let me know and I'll try to help you as much as I can.

Thanks,
Frank
CPT

 

the reason i am asking is because i have a friend that owns a transmission shop. He has had it for 12 years and mainly deals with stock rebuilds. i had some information that i showed him that you typed out a while back to a guy telling him how to build a tranny that would last. i took it to my builder today and he told me to find out what needs to be done and he will do it.

oh and by the way i know how to use the search function: here is what you wrote that i showed my tranny guy LINK FROM 1-3-04

basically is that everything i need to know? and what would you change since that?

explain to me if you can why the mod kit doesn't work also, this is somthing my builder doesn't want to change but he said if i had a reason he would gladly do it.

 

Wow...A post from 2004? There have been a few things that have changed since then. That's back from when CPT was in it's infancy, and I was working for another shop...LOL. Here's a link to make things a little more detailed for present day stuff. http://www.geocities.com/cahallperfo...l60ebuild.html.

Frank
CPT

 

so no special tricks to get it done, just go off that list of parts and put em in?

also what about that mods kit, do i need to take it out and if so why?

 

I didn't say it would be that easy. Giving you a parts list is one thing. If I shared all my "secrets" I wouldn't stay in buisness long. Remember, there are other transmission builders on here, also. I know many of them would love to know how we get these things to work and last where they continue to fail.



What "Mods kit"? If you're referring to a vacuum modulator kit, yes, it needs to come out. If it has a Trans Go shift kit, yes it needs to have most of it removed also.

Frank
CPT

 

i understand, well with that said if i follow this link should i be fine. and what would you do different if anything?

keep in mind my 1-2 and 3-4 feel sloppy and slow, and it flare shifts at wot.

also does the vac mod kit need to be taken out because the line pressure at high rpm is not sufficiant?

he is helping me for free and only charging parts because i've helped him in the past, and i'm a broke 24 year old about to get married. this is the only reason i am doing this. thanks a lot for the help.

 

personaly I would do away with the vac mod setup and go back to the PCS ,Yes I know some do fine with them but not my preferance , Any other help you need I will be happy to supply wither by private or yahoo messenger for the same reasons stated above , on yahoo messenger we are performabuilt ,
Good luck with your project and if you need something feel free to holler anytime we are here from 9 am till 1 am eastern time 7 days a weeks

 

I sent you a PM. I'll help you with all your parts and talk to your builder about what modifications to do. Have him call me 302-250-1202.


Frank
CPT

 

Well Frank, I got him to build that trans and it lasted till this morning. I forgot to have him call you for the modifications to do so i'm assuming that's why it went.

 

what parts did you end up using ?

 

Basically the stuff listed on his site for the pro race build, but i'm not going to list stuff out or what we did to the valve body. He probably doesn't
want that info out there.