Getting all the stuff together for my H/C package and want to do gears and a girdle while my heads are out getting ported. What is the stock rear with a new set of Richmonds and a girdle able to handle?

Also, jegs offers their brand gears a lot cheaper, are they worthy?

 

Its a crap shoot. Stock cars can break the 10 bolt with street tires and yet some guys will run 11's on DR's with a 10 bolt.

The 4.10's will definately hurt longevity because they are weaker and as such more prone to breakage.

Summit also offers cheaper gears, but I have no idea who cuts them though. Give them a call and see if they say.

 

Are we talking about the M6 in your sig?

Are you going to be doing drag strip launches? What kind of tires?

 

yes the exact car in my sig.. i will be going to the strip and after my h/c hopefully ill have somewhere over 400hp. I'll have street tires for now.. do i have any other options besides a girdle? I didnt wanna spend more than 500 on my rear..

 

my car put down 333whp on a mustang dyno through an m6 with the same setup you want to run. i have not had any problems as of yet. i have probably 4k miles on it. very little whine. but i know it is a ticking time bomb. if i were you and u wanted to stick with the stock rearend, i would run 3.73s.

 

I would get a diff cover with the adjustable bolts that hold the bearing caps in place. I don't know if that's what you mean by a girdle or not.

It's going to be risky at that power level, no matter what you do to your 10-bolt. Stick with the street tires and odds are that you'll be okay, but we can't make you any promises.

 

It's traction that will cause the strain on parts. You can have tons of HP and no traction and not be overly concerned. Once you start seriously putting the HP to the ground, things will need to be upgraded.

 

yea thats what i figured, even now if i punch it or dump the clutch the tires will just spin instead of hooking and blowing parts. So if i stick to streets tires i could probably get away with it for now since the tires will break loose before anything in the diff does..hopefully

 

I recently bought a 4.10 gear set & master install kit, but this is on a pretty much stock 96 SS. The car will not see any track time (maybe Autocrossing) and was wondering the same question? I will be upgrading to a 9" or 12 bolt once the motor change takes place.

 

its not hp that breaks rears. Its shock from 5k clutch dumps. A manual sends shock threw the driveline much harsher than a auto. Slip the clutch to make the rear last, and even than it could last a few passes. Ive even heard of guys breaking them on the street.

 

i've been running 400rwhp on my cammed ls1 with my stock rear for 2yrs.

i even have a stg 4 clutch...which is really harsh.

last year i upgraded to a rear end girdle an installed the stud kit on the bearing caps.

i grab 2nd pretty hard on the street with 315 DRs...sofar so good. but i don't launch hard.

the stud kit is worth the money, as is the girdle i think.

 

Interesting reading.... how to dump $1,690.05 into your 10-bolt.

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ild/index.html

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ild/index.html

 

Now I know where the saying "throwing good money on top of bad money" came from.

 

Another $100 will get you a Dana 60.

 

throw a t/a cover on it and hope it lasts long enough to buy a 12 bolt or dana 60. I have a t/a cover with 3:73's and its held up fine with over 300rwhp, but i've been running street tires and mine is an auto.