Hi all. Im sure some of you know my Transmission issues its having. If not, its in https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=579731 That thread. Also, now it has an intense vibration when in 1-2. It feels like the cars rearend tires are breaking loose and grabbing, a pretty intense vibration.

But anyways, I have a 95 LT1 Camaro, thats basically takin an external body beating. But it has an upgraded brand new tranny/stall converter in it. The tranny would be going into a 94 LT1. I dont have any kind of car lift/tranny holder though. I do tho, have access to a driveline shop but they dont have a car lift. How would I be able to change these transmissions? A fiew floor jacks n things? How high should the car be, if its NOT on an actuall car lift? Thank you all for the help!

 

Javier did a write-up of a TC swap and removing the trans looks pretty straight forward. Few floor jacks, trans jack, the right tools. Here ya go http://www.zmydust.com/converter.html

 

Just swapped the tranny in my 94. Impact tools made a few tasks easier, but were not required. Had the back wheels on ramps and the front on jack stands. Taking it out I had help. It took us about 10 hours. Much of that was trying to figure out how to do it and trying things that did not work. Extensions and swivel sockets are the key. At least 31" of extensions and a swivel socket that will fit the trans to engine bolts.

Putting it back in I had help to get it started then finished it myself. Took about 7 hours.

Good luck!

 

Definatly want to get the car as high as you can. Because you have to think of when you get it out of there, if it will slide out from under the car.

 

I'm going to do mine by myself. Probably take me a night or two of work. No big deal. The hardest part will be getting the tranny out form under the car and the new one back under. Probably need some help there.

 

Take your time, do NOT get frustrated and fet up. If things get to the point they make u angry, take a break, you dont want to rush and break a crucial plug or connector, or worse...strip/ring off a bolt head. The job is NOT NEARLY as hard as it seems. Take ur time, undo all ur connectors and bolts, exhaust, ds, tc bolts, etc. then put a jack (trans jack or floor jack with a piece of plywood on it so's not to damage the pan) under ur trans pan, undo the cross member, gently let down the trans until its almost ready to hang on its own. Set the jack to where it's juuuuust holding the trans slightly, then with the trans at that angle u should be able to sneak a long extension and socket back there and get to those bellhousing bolts muuuuch easier. If u have air tools, use them. As stated before, just take ur time and do the job right, it wont be that difficult. Good luck.

 

ussj4brolli ...

Look here at some photos of my car up on "stands":

http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.c...37393294327586

Two photos. I have had my Z at this height to change out the 4L60E tranny
and to install headers. This height was *perfect* to get the tranny out. That
is about 20" at the lowest point on the underbelly. Take note that I have
built custom wood "stands" that the tires rest on. This is *very* safe and the
car sits up at a nice height to comfortably work under. I spent $40 in wood
to create these "stands".

If you can get your car up 20" to the underbelly, you will be very comfortable
and safe to swap out the tranny.

 

I did it!

Successfully took the tranny out of my 95 Z28 and installed it into my 94 Z28. Wasnt too bad actually when you have like 8 extentions and air tool access. I had it on floor jacks with a jack @ the diff.

My old tranny was toast, BLACK flud came out. havnt removed the pan yet to see what goodies have regergitated out yet, but soon .

The tranny that I took out of my 95 was a high performance tranny from eatmyshift.com . That tranny lasted about a year, about 3 years ago, then lost 3-4 gears once again, and the TC was fried/cracked. I beat the crap out of that tranny though, suprised it lasted that long. I had it rebuilt again in Boise, ID + higher stall TC. Sence I had it rebuilt, i have abused the crap out of this tranny, downshifting at 35MPH to 1st racing people. Great stuff.

Anyways. I think i broke the oil pressure senser somehow/somewhere. I get a "Check guages" light, and the oil pressure guage doesnt move...Where in the hack is this thing, and how do i tell if thats the issue?

 

I just swapped out my 4L60E and it was no problem. I made some wood
stands (think drive-up ramps without the drive up part) that all four tires
rest on - the stands are about 12" high. The basics, without getting into
too much detail is the following:
* remove battery terminals
* remove driveshaft, torque bar, and crossmember cover
* disconnect exhaust at cat converter
* loosen center tranny mount bolt
* raise tranny at rear a bit with floor jack
* remove 4 bolts holding crossmember on, then the center bolt
* remove the lower 4 bellhousing-to-engine bolts
* push the dipstick out of the tranny and pull it out the top in
the engine compartment
* remove the starter
* let tranny down with floor jack almost at the point that
the jack is not holding up the tranny.
* with an 18 inch+ extension, loosen the top 2 bellhousing-engine bolts
you will do this while at the back of the tranny (use a swivel/short socket).
* remove the tranny cooler lines on the passenger side
* remove all the wiring (on each side of tranny) and their tie-downs
* remove the upper 2 bellhousing/engine bolts
* jack the tranny back up and hold it in place with a stand.
* move the floor jack under the pan, with wood in-between, preferably
a 2x6 or 2x8 about 8-10 inches long - the tranny should be level.
you should place the wood/floor jack pad just under the FRONT of
the tranny's pan - this is its "balance point"
* put a stand under the engine pan (with wood in-between) to hold it up
* remove the rear-most tranny stand
* remove the torque converter cover
* remove the three torque converter-to-flywheel bolts.
* with your floor jack holding up the tranny, be sure the floor jack is
pointing to the rear of the car (the handle)
* pull back on the tranny while simultaneously pulling on the floor jack.
but pull very slowly, only enough so there is a bellhousing/engine gap
of about 1/2 inch or so. verify there is nothing binding the tranny.
* pull back on the tranny a bit more until the guide pins are fully exposed
(the 2 alignment dowel type pins sticking out the back of the block)
* once you have verified there is significant gap between the bellhousing
and the torque convert and the engine, VERY SLOWLY let the tranny
down with the floor jack.
* verify the gap between tranny and engine - continue to SLOWLY let
the tranny down with the jack.

That should be it. look in here for various photos - I'll have more to put
up in the next couple of days. It's great to have an assistant, but not
required. I removed the tranny and re-installed it by myself (and headers)
and had no difficulty (and I'm 50 years old )

Ooops - looks like I'm too late

 

Congrats !!!! And yes, I damaged my oil pressure sensor too!!! It happens
when you let the back of the tranny down and the engine comes back to the
firewall and crushes the sensor - I just dont get the Chevy engine designers
sometimes!!!!!

The ONLY WAY to get that sensor out easily is to get a "oil pressure
sensor" socket. I'm serious - I tried all different ways and ended up buying
one of these sockets. The sensor is at the BACK of the engine, right
under the EGR. You use a socket and put it on the sensor from the
drivers side, with the socket pointing towards the passenger side.
I taped a small mirror on the firewall, so I could see the sensor and could
easily work the socket to it. You will need about a 4-6 inch 3/8 extension
and ratchet to get it out.

I know about this because I just replaced it last night. If you have this
special socket, it will take all of 10 minutes to get th old one out and
install the new one.

 

http://modernmusclecars.net/articles...all/index.html

 

i pulled mine a few weeks ago, next week i should have her back form being rebuilt and reinstalling her.... im doing it all on jackstands with the help of a buddy with air tools... i do have mine up about 18-20in also