crAzy95z28

ok right now i dunno if i have a 2200stall or a 2400 stall...at my 1st tranny rebuild at this ****ty place, i asked the place t put in a 2800 and he said it wouldnt be good...didnt know much about it then, but he said he was going to put in a corvette stall or a lil higher...
but yea i have that in now or w/e....but from seeing the 2800-3200 which would be best for my car..and i need it streetable which it is now...going 3000 stall would do what difference in my car and power?
mods are in sig..

crAzy95z28

also a stall works like this....it holds about 50% power and then when it hits 2800 (for a 2800 stall) or a 3000 ( for a 3000stall) it shoots the rest of the trq around that rpm level, which is kinda a boost in a way?
please let me know....not very good with drivetrain, just engine stuff!!!

Jay-Roll

You will definately notice a difference between what you have now and say a 3000rpm stall. But probably only if you get a good quality unit. It won't be a huge difference, but still one the same. All I converter does is allow the engine to rev higher before it actually starts engaging the power through the drivetrain. It also keeps the rpms in the car's powerband after each shift. On my car when I go WOT it used to shift from 5800rpms down to 2000-2500, basically dropping out of the range where my car makes its most power and then slowly catching back up. Now it goes from 5800 down to 4000 then right back up, shifts at redline, back to 4000,etc. I always stay at the top of the rpm range and stay using the most power I can. This made a huge difference on top end pull for me. As far as the reving from a stop look at it this way. If the car were a stick, a stock converter would be like letting out the clutch from idle and just driving away(not very good for out of the hole acceleration). A 3000rpm stall for example would be like side stepping the clutch at 3000rpms. Traction permitting(which I have trouble with now) the car would definately leave a stop much much harder,faster,basically just overall better. Hope you understand what I'm saying. Keep in mind a converter will not give you any boost in horsepower or torque, it will just allow you to utilize the power you are making to it's fullest extent. You actually might even see an increase in RWHP but only because it transfers your power to the wheels much more efficiently. I recommend one of the higher end converters(Yank or PI Vigilante) to get the best for your money. You get what you pay for, and these are worth every dime.

Wildwill2855

I had it explained like this, someones selling a 3000 custom built stall, and he said it will power break only till about 2200 , but if you stomp it , it will flash at 3000? Is this right, he said because of our transmission break? Heres what is actually said

The reason is because stall converters are rated with a trans brake. With a transmission brake, this converter will stall up to around 3k rpms. However, the brakes on our cars are not nearly strong enough to hold back the torque of the engine. Therefore the tires start to break loose at about 2200...

You will never power brake any tq converter up to the advertised stall rating with your brakes. With a trans brake you can though...

Jay-Roll

He is right and that is true. Oddly enough though, the more power your car makes both in tq and hp the closer you get to the stalls recommended stall rpm when brake stalling it. If I'm just idling and I stomp on it the car flashes to 3k and the car screams outta the hole, well, the car comes sidewayz outta the hole spinning like a deer trying to run on ice. If I brake stall it I usually can only get up to about 2200rpms before the tires start to turn. I think if I had some stickier tires it would probably hold to a little higher rpm. Maybe only 100-200rpms more though. I usually just stomp on it, hold on and go. In the upper rpm range the car acts and shifts the same either way. Again, that's really where the stall shows itself. It is great for the first 60ft outta the hole, but if I lose any ground with tire spin, which I usually do, staying in the powerband makes up for it very very well on top end. In another thread I was complaining how my buddy's TA auto that's the same year as mine with almost the exact same mods minus a stall and with crappy 2.73's to my 3.42's can get me outta the hole pretty bad. I chalked it up to a clogged cat(which it was) and also poor traction(which we both had, but mine was much worse). On the top end I come right by him though, I know it's because of both the stall and the gears, but my car never stops pulling anymore, and that's all stall.

crAzy95z28

ok yea..i can only get my car up to around 1800-1900 and my tires break loose, also cause they are street 245/50/16 tires...but yea i havent looked when i nail the pedal to the ground when i say from a 5-10 mph roll and see where the car takes off....i will try that next time and i will also see where my car hit the rpm after each shift....1-2 goes up to ( i have no idea cause it is soo fast cant catch it) then 2-3 is around 6600-6700rpms then 3-4 i dunno cause i usually let out by then and i leace it in drive not OD...but i will be sure to check where my rpms hit after that 1-2 then 2-3......
if and when i do get another stall what would yall prefer with my mods? soon to have ported heads, ported intake, and bigger tb, and nitrous 75 shot wet!!
2800, 3000, or 3200....
also want it daily driven...nothing ruff...alread ruff enough with my tranny...slams the heck out of me 1-2 and 2-3 big time

Jay-Roll

A stall will not make your shifts firmer. It actually makes them softer or slushier. Most people that get converters get a shift kit also to firm shifts back up. A lot of people claim to not even be able to feel the car shift anymore without a shift kit. I dunno if you have one already but a tranny cooler is an absolute MUST when doing anything like this. Stall's create an enormous amount of heat and heat is the #1 killer of are auto trannys. As far as stall rpm it all depends on what you eventually want out of the car. The higher the stall, the lower the car's streetability supposedly goes. A lot of people don't agree with this, but it's mainly each persons personal defenition of streetability. I have a 3000rpm and it's perfect for the street or strip. After about 3 days I never even noticed a difference vs stock. 2800rpm was my original choice since it was most recommended, but I just went 3000rpm cause that's what I found when I started shopping for a used one. I've heard 3200 is a very great converter being just on the verge of easy street manners and still getting great potential out of the car on the dragstrip. Be careful though the "looser" you go with a stall(the higher rpm) for example a 3600rpm the less likely you are to see actual "better" benefits over say a 2800rpm with minimal power. I'd say anything under 300hp or maybe a little more would actually cause a poor effect at the strip instead of an improved one. Just because it slips too much and the car doesn't have power to make up for that. Start making good power though(over 350hp) and it would make a world of a difference in performance. I recommend 2800 or 3000rpm. Either are almost the same and both great choices. The best bet is to go with a Precision Industries Vigilante. They are pricey but provide a free stall change with a new purchase. So if you decide down the road you need a little more stall, you can get it changed for free. No going out and buying a new converter. 3200rpm could cause ill effects with your PCM if you have an OBD1 equipped car. If you have a 95' Z like your nick says you have OBD1. This will cause shifting issues and you'll have problems bouncing off the rev. limiter between shifts,etc. This can easily be fixed with a custom tune though. BTW the stock redline of our cars is actually exactly 5750 although the stock tach doesn't really show that. Some are off more than others but basically all stock tach's suck and are not accurate.

crAzy95z28

if you see in sig, my tranny was rebuilt with a stage 3...if i remember correctly i belive there was a tranny cooler put in..they do sit inside the tranny right? or no? i do have a trans-go shift kit....i think i will go higher on the stall prefably 2800..since my cam is not big yet not small, nice sleeper cam...is it hard to chnage stalls? cause if it isnt i can do it myself, no biggie...
let me know
and if any one has a 2800 stall let me know if you want to sale it...
randy

Jay-Roll

A tranny cooler is NOT inside the tranny. It basically looks like a mini radiator with an inlet hose and an outlet hose. It hooks in line with the two tranny lines going into the radiator itself. Less than an hour install and very very good insurance. Also if you already have a Trans-Go then no need for that. If your basically mechanically inclined a converter install is pretty simple. It's taking off the crossmember,unhooking the shifting linkage,2 tranny lines, 2 plug in sensors,6 bolts for the bell housing to the engine, 4 bolts for the scatter sheild, 3 bolts on the converter to the flywheel, pulling the driveshaft yolk out. Dropping the tranny and converter down together and reverse with the new one. Make sure you spend extra time filling the converter up before you install it. It'll take a while of pooring fluid in, waiting for it to go down, pooring more in, etc. til it's eventually full. Basic hand tools are all that's needed for this project but some extras you either need or things that make the job easier are here. Atleast a 2ft extension, but probably 3ft would be better or atleast the equivilent of that long mixing a few extension together. It is very hard to reach the bolts on the top of the tranny. I actually had the wratchet way back by the tailshaft of the tranny when removing bolts up at the block. A breaker bar will do wonders getting those bolts loose. Also line wrenches will really help removing the tranny lines. Believe it or not 2 tranny lines sound simple, but they were the hardest part of the job for me, and I've heard others say the same. I did remove mine with regular open end wrenches, but it was a pain. Need any help when doing it shoot me a PM I'll walk you through it. Again PI vigilante or Yank converter are the ONLY two I recommend, also 2800 would be just fine for you. Remember the better the quality converter the closer it actually is to the stall rpm it's advertised as, you get what you pay for. Oh forgot to mention. Find out the spec's on your cam(if you don't already know). Really just find out the rpm ranges it operates best in. If it's a mid range cam that starts at 2500rpms all the way up to 5500 or so a 2800rpm stall would be perfect. If it goes from 3000-6000 then a 3000 would be great. So on and so forth. You want the stall to be as close to where the cam starts to make its power to get the best potential. Either right around the same rpm or slightly higher.