Home made Adjustable Master Cyl.
#1
Home made Adjustable Master Cyl.
After installing a RAM Powergrip clutch with aluminum flywheel I ran into a problem with the clutch not properly disengaging.
It was very hard to get in first gear unless the car was moving.
After doing a search I found a very old thread regarding the modification of an OEM master to turn it into an adjustable master instead of buying the Mcleod one and decided to give it a shot.
I began with a brand new master from Thepartsladi and disassembled it:
Then I measured the actuator shaft tolal length as a reference. It turned out to be 7.540" I wanted to modify it in order to obtain +/- 1/4" adjustability
After that I removed the eyelet part of the shaft from the ball end (It is a two part shaft crimped together) and cut the eyelet off the original shaft leaving about 1/4" round material after where it turns into a square shape. I threaded it with a 3/8" die as far as it would go. Used a coupling nut and a jam nut to connect it with a 3/8" x 6" bolt. This bolt will become part of the main shaft after cutting the head off and drilling a 1/4" hole about 1 1/4"deep on the remaining stub. The ball end part of the original shaft was inserted and epoxied with JB weld to this adjustable half of the shaft
This is the finished actuating shaft assembled:
And this the finished MC:
Now I can adjust my clutch disengagement point all over the place. It really worked for me.
It was very hard to get in first gear unless the car was moving.
After doing a search I found a very old thread regarding the modification of an OEM master to turn it into an adjustable master instead of buying the Mcleod one and decided to give it a shot.
I began with a brand new master from Thepartsladi and disassembled it:
Then I measured the actuator shaft tolal length as a reference. It turned out to be 7.540" I wanted to modify it in order to obtain +/- 1/4" adjustability
After that I removed the eyelet part of the shaft from the ball end (It is a two part shaft crimped together) and cut the eyelet off the original shaft leaving about 1/4" round material after where it turns into a square shape. I threaded it with a 3/8" die as far as it would go. Used a coupling nut and a jam nut to connect it with a 3/8" x 6" bolt. This bolt will become part of the main shaft after cutting the head off and drilling a 1/4" hole about 1 1/4"deep on the remaining stub. The ball end part of the original shaft was inserted and epoxied with JB weld to this adjustable half of the shaft
This is the finished actuating shaft assembled:
And this the finished MC:
Now I can adjust my clutch disengagement point all over the place. It really worked for me.
Last edited by Ricardo; 11-18-2009 at 06:14 AM.
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