It was posted by "95ttoplt1"

 

Hey guys this is 95ttoplt1 from fbody, I have this converter and love it, it foot brakes to about 2400 and flashes to 2988 acording to DM, I love it and have zero problems with it, it knocked .2 off my 60's and is fine for everyday driving. It is a restalled stocker so I'm not sure why that makes it a piece of crap as many spray 150shot on stock converters and have no problems, I have a friend that has a midwest 3k stall and our cars act the same as far as converters are. I have absolutley beat the **** out of this thing if anyone is gonna break it I would have by now, well over 100 passes and zero problems, I just wouldn't run more nitrous on it than you would on a stocker but for a bolt car the bang for the buck is well worth it IMO.

 

sorry forgot to add his shipping was a little slow, took him 4 days to get it to the mail and I was wanting to race that weekend and ended up not making it so I was a little pissed but the product is good

 

I sent my money order 1 week got the TC the next week.
service was fine as far as I was concerned.
gonna put it in in a few weeks.

 

yeah mine took almost 2 weeks and we were 150 mile apart

 

Restalled torque converters are excellent formula for power loss.

 

i dont care about power i just want to be quicker in the 1/4 mile

 

not caring about power and being quicker in the 1/4 is an oxymoron.

stock converters with rebent fins to achieve higher stall result in higher heat and less efficiency.. translating into shortened tranny life and less horsepower to the wheels.

your choice, but i hate to see people constantly cutting corners to go "on the cheap"

 

Worst post I have read in a while......

 

My tranny temps stay right at 175 pass after pass, even when hot lapping it, the exact same temp they were with the stock converter I have about 200 Datmaster logs if some one wants to see. These aren't the best converters but I doubt you could beak them with a bolt on car with a 150 shot. And you get what you pay for doesn't always work out, I broke 3 B&m and 2 TCI converters before a local shop restalled a stocker for me and I never had another problem, this was in a 69 f-250 with a 429 and c-6. Just my .02, if you don't like it don't buy it, but if you have never used it how do you know it is junk?

 

Yes people who paid 500-800.00 for a for a vig or yank TC have to say something bad to feel better.
I'm getting a CPT A4, blower cam and Summit Trickflow heads so the extra money for that will sure help out.

 

I don't see how this only applies to restalled converters and not to all conerters, everyone knows a higher stall converter is less efficent thats why you get the higher stall speed. And the "I don't care about power I just want to be faster" I took as a reference to dyno racing. I really could give to craps as to what my car dynos before and after a converter as long as its faster. Like I said before my car picked up 2 tenths in the 60' and .3 in the 1/8 with just a converter and also gained 1.5 mph, so obviously you can have a power loss like you stated and go faster in the real world, or my converter isn't eating the power like you said.

 

The fact that I don't dyno my car and have a 3200 Vigi in my car speak otherwise of my opinion. I'm no dyno-racer.

I don't need to justify my $750 converter purchase by making posts, I do that by making consistent 1.6x 60' times and low 12 second passes in a cam only LT1. Close to 250-300 passes in a stock 4L60E.

While a Vigi or Yank can have some efficiency loss, it's definitely less than that of a heavy, stock, already inefficient converter.

 

 

Let's keep one other thing in mind. Eventhough a converter manufactuerer will warranty their converter...They don't cover the parts that a bad converter will destroy inside the transmission.

Frank