Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

Did a search and just want to make sure...

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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 07:52 AM
  #1  
Tricked-Out-Toy's Avatar
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Did a search and just want to make sure...

Ok im swapping out the 10 bolt for a 9". Im going to be re-using the LS1 aluminum Drive shaft and want to make sure the 240-0447 u-joint is the right one. I pick it up from napa the other day and it has inner c-clips on the cups that press into the drivshaft. by looking at the u-joint in the driveshaft now there isnt any clips, or at elast non that I can see. thanks!
Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:41 AM
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If you're upgrading differentials to withstand hard launches on sticky tires, the LS1 driveshaft is now your weak link. I would look into buying a steel driveshaft. I watched my friend twist his LS1 driveshaft like it was made of taffy.

Here's a link to driveshaft sources: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422813
Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by OBE1 95Z28
If you're upgrading differentials to withstand hard launches on sticky tires, the LS1 driveshaft is now your weak link. I would look into buying a steel driveshaft. I watched my friend twist his LS1 driveshaft like it was made of taffy.

Here's a link to driveshaft sources: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422813
Oh ya I know all about twisted aluminum shafts but I couldnt find one for the price I wanted to spend so Im still looking for a steel one but I would still ike to (A) drive the car around till I find one (B) have the alumium one as a spare incase i break the steel one. right now I make around 400 at the wheels so its not like I blow the aluminum one up right away, but I do plan on spraying so I KNOW I need a heavy duty steel one.

So ya will the conversion u-joint work in the aluminum LS1 shaft?
Old Apr 19, 2007 | 04:32 PM
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You'll not only need to match U-joints but you'll also need to check the length. The stock length was too long for my Moser 9" setup. I had Denny's make me a new steel driveshaft that was about 3/4" shorter. So if you end up needing a shorter driveshaft and a different U-joint, that's money that could be applied to a new steel driveshaft.
Old Apr 19, 2007 | 06:58 PM
  #5  
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Well I got the U-joint for 10.99 so Im not to worried about that....
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