Car won't shift when started - Right after a Clutch Swap - Help?
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 827
From: Philly, Pa
I tried that also, Shifting to first then starting the car. it worked, but i could feel the clutch dragging, like it wasn't fully engaged. as far as the plastic zip tie end, id have to see a picture of it to know what you are talking about.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 386
From: Raleigh, North Carolina
Slave Tip Bushing
Yes..it is ok to leave the plastic retainer on during installation. It keeps the the bushing on the rod tip during installation. When the clutch is first activated the plastic straps break away.
Bob
Bob
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,025
From: Tucson, AZ
Originally Posted by azvforce
I had similar problems last year. My RAM clutch worked great for about 2k miles when I could no longer shift with the car running. I replaced the clutch master/slave/line assembly with a pre bled GM unit. No change at all. Bled the system with a mityvac 5 times. Did with the rear of the car in the air, then just the front in the air, everything. Bled it several times with the pedal too. No change. Pulled the trans and everything looked perfect. Clutch disc looked PERFECT. I inspected the damn thing on the bench for a long time. Springs, everything, perfect. Pressure plate and flywheel also perfect. Reinstalled everything per the GM manual with EVERYTHING torqued exactly to gm spec. No change at all. Pulled the trans again. Replaced flywheel, flywheel bolts , and pressure plate. Could not see replacing disc because it looked brand new still and had worked great for 2k mi. No change at all.
I said F-it and ordered a clutch disc from http://www.clutchnet.com got some cheap unsprung disc for like $80 just to put it in there so i could say i replaced everything. This thing looked like a boomerang with three sintered iron pucks on each side. I put it in and my problems were over. I have no idea how or why, but replacing a perfectly good $$ disc with a cheesy one cured my problems. This new clutch is pretty friggin grabby, so grabby that I sheared 3 teeth off my Richmond gears the next day .
on a 2nd gear upshift on street tires!
hope this helps.
I said F-it and ordered a clutch disc from http://www.clutchnet.com got some cheap unsprung disc for like $80 just to put it in there so i could say i replaced everything. This thing looked like a boomerang with three sintered iron pucks on each side. I put it in and my problems were over. I have no idea how or why, but replacing a perfectly good $$ disc with a cheesy one cured my problems. This new clutch is pretty friggin grabby, so grabby that I sheared 3 teeth off my Richmond gears the next day .
on a 2nd gear upshift on street tires!hope this helps.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 827
From: Philly, Pa
:/ sorry you are having such a tough time with this. interesting though, my cousin put in the RAM kit and it worked perfectly for him. until it started slipping. he has almost the exact same build i do. then he got a clutchnet sprung hub like mine, rnning fine to this day.
good luck on getting things ironed out.
good luck on getting things ironed out.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 17
From: Northwest NJ
Was the clutch hydraulics bled after installing the new slave cylinder?
It must be bled even if you don't see bubbles. The procedure to do it was included with my slave cylinder. You had to loosen the master cylinder bolts then force the slave plunger in and keep the master cylinder full. Keep at it until not a single bubble shows up. (You must have help to do this.) Then retighten the master cylinder. (You MUST loosen it to bleed the system properly -- it allows the piston to move back further letting the air past.)
If there is air in the system the pedal might feel fine but all you are doing is compressing air.
Charlie.
It must be bled even if you don't see bubbles. The procedure to do it was included with my slave cylinder. You had to loosen the master cylinder bolts then force the slave plunger in and keep the master cylinder full. Keep at it until not a single bubble shows up. (You must have help to do this.) Then retighten the master cylinder. (You MUST loosen it to bleed the system properly -- it allows the piston to move back further letting the air past.)
If there is air in the system the pedal might feel fine but all you are doing is compressing air.
Charlie.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
ziptie?
i wasnt sure if you found the answer for the ziptie like thing on the slave.. and if it is what im thinking of that is just for packing and should be taken off... the problem you are having with not being able to shift with the car running is a result of the clutch not releasing enough just have to figure out what would be causing it to thick of a cutch disk or slave i have had a slave do the same thing but it just wasnt bled enough it took more than usual to get it done
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 386
From: Raleigh, North Carolina
Slave Cylinder Rod Tip Bushing
Do not remove the cylinder rod tip bushing that is held in place by what looks like two tie wraps . The bushing actually seats between the slave rod and the clutch fork and is meant to provide a smooth and noise free operation when the clutch is pressed in.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,025
From: Tucson, AZ
Was the clutch hydraulics bled after installing the new slave cylinder?
It must be bled even if you don't see bubbles. The procedure to do it was included with my slave cylinder. You had to loosen the master cylinder bolts then force the slave plunger in and keep the master cylinder full. Keep at it until not a single bubble shows up. (You must have help to do this.) Then retighten the master cylinder. (You MUST loosen it to bleed the system properly -- it allows the piston to move back further letting the air past.)
If there is air in the system the pedal might feel fine but all you are doing is compressing air.
Charlie.
It must be bled even if you don't see bubbles. The procedure to do it was included with my slave cylinder. You had to loosen the master cylinder bolts then force the slave plunger in and keep the master cylinder full. Keep at it until not a single bubble shows up. (You must have help to do this.) Then retighten the master cylinder. (You MUST loosen it to bleed the system properly -- it allows the piston to move back further letting the air past.)
If there is air in the system the pedal might feel fine but all you are doing is compressing air.
Charlie.
i wasnt sure if you found the answer for the ziptie like thing on the slave.. and if it is what im thinking of that is just for packing and should be taken off... the problem you are having with not being able to shift with the car running is a result of the clutch not releasing enough just have to figure out what would be causing it to thick of a cutch disk or slave i have had a slave do the same thing but it just wasnt bled enough it took more than usual to get it done
UPDATE (I did this before reading this thread):
Okay, so I got under there and pulled down the slave and the plastic retainer clip (that is supposed to break the first time the clutch is engaged) was still intact. This lead me to believe the slave was not fully opening up.
I also bled the clutch and there was some bubbles. After bleeding the clutch and reinstalling the slave, I am still having the same problems. I'm going to take down the slave again tonight to see if the retainer clip has broken yet or not. If it hasn't, it means my slave isn't opening up pretty much at all.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 368
From: Bay Area, CA
I'm having the same problems and I haven't even changed my clutch 
My clutch fluid was horrible, so I changed the fluid while bleeding the clutch with a vacuum pump.
How do you get to the screw on the bell housing to bleed it from there?
My clutch fluid was horrible, so I changed the fluid while bleeding the clutch with a vacuum pump.
How do you get to the screw on the bell housing to bleed it from there?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,025
From: Tucson, AZ
I don't have CAGS, but maybe something else is mixed up.
I have the tranny out now.
I don't think there is one.
I have the tranny out now.
I don't think there is one.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 1998
Posts: 6,247
From: Charlotte,MI USA
You can use a socket and ratchet but that forces all the fluid to run back into the bellhousing.
I made a special tool by cutting the drive end off of an old socket and welding it to a box end wrench. That way the fluid squirts out, mostly.