Counted Out

So I did my first clutch swap recently and thanks to you guys, everything went pretty smoothly.

I fired her up today, but when I went to put the car in gear, it wasn't going to happen. I turned the car off and noticed I could shift the gears while the car is off, even without pushing the clutch in. So I shifted the car into first, started it, and I was able to drive. But as soon as I put the car back into neutral to shift into another gear, it just would not go into another gear. So here's a break down of the problem:

1. I can shift the transmission, with the car off, without even using the clutch.

2. The car will not shift once started.

3. If you shift the car into gear (while off), then start the car, you can drive in that gear.

Someone PLEASE help the newb.

AL SS590 M6

Your clutch is not dis-engaging. Try bleeding your hydraulics.

redcamaroz28

Are you sure you put the clutch disk facing the right way? I made that mistake once and it did exactly what yours is doing.

Counted Out

Ughhhhh. That's the last thing I wanted to hear. That's what I was worried about.

Thank you for your help though. I'm going to bleed the hell out of the clutch and if that doesn't fix the problem, time to start tearing it all down again.

CreatiVe2

i had this happen to me once, tranny came in and out 3 times :/ last time i changed clutches though, everything went smooth. my problem was the clutch disk. it was to thick. i dont remember the exact measurements, but it was no more than .030 thicker than stock. if you put it in backwards i think you would have issue before this point. did you install the sprung hub portion towards the front of the engine? was your clutch fork worn at all? is the slave cylinder bolted down all the way?

Counted Out

The disc is a Ram Powergrip made for LT1's, so I would hope it would be the right size.

I'm pretty sure that's the way the disc was installed, but I'll ask my dad as he was helping me at that time and he put the disc in. The fork looked pretty good though.

I will check the slave cylinder though. I can see that being a possibility as I replaced just the slave and not the whole Master and Slave setup.

CreatiVe2

Wow, thats the exact one i had issues with, i ended up it sending it back to summit and getting a clutch net disk

www.clutchnet.com
I got the 6 puck sprung hub
works great holds power from whats in Sig

rclearyiii

Remove the slave cylinder and make sure the clutch fork is fully engaged and that the slave cylinder rod is contacting the fork in the proper place..the circular indentation of it.

Counted Out

I also ordered mine from Summit, but let me get this correct. You had the exact same problem(s), with the same disc, and the problem was from the disc being too thick, correct?

How did you come to the conclusion it was too thick? I'm almost sure Summit won't let me return it as I ordered it months ago. But I mite be able to get Ram to replace it if it is a manufacturer defect. Do you remember around when you ordered the disc?

I'm pretty sure it is. If it wasn't, I don't think the clutch would engage/disengage at all. I made that mistake the first time, so I already had to fix that problem.

CreatiVe2

i used a digital micrometer, and i remember the RAM hd was thicker by over .020 compared to a stock lt4. which was the disk i put in, and it was fine.

about 2 years ago, i can get an exact date. but its been over a year and a ½.
i put the clutch in my car, and summit let me return it. im sure you can call them and work out something.

rclearyiii

Counted...make sure that the slave rod is not bent. I actually bent one a while back by not installing the slave correctly.

Bob

Counted Out

So the Ram Powergrip HD was .020 thicker, but it worked? I thought you said you had problems with that one?

Maybe I'm mis-understanding.

I ordered it months ago, I'm not sure if they will take it back. I'll have to talk to them though.

That's what I did to the first one, but if that was the problem I don't think I'd be getting any clutch at all. But maybe I'm wrong?

I still didn't rip down the slave today. I just checked the reservoir for bubbles while I pumped the clutch - there was no bubbles.

rclearyiii

Counted....I would remove the slave and release the clutch fork from the throw out bearing and re-seat it. Check the slave rod for straightness and then re-install. Sure would be nice if something simple and free could fix the problem.

Bob

CreatiVe2

it was thicker all around by at least .020, and was having the same problems as you.

Counted Out

I'll check, but I don't think it would cause this problem. When I shift into first before starting the car, the clutch acts normal. Which means the rod has to be engaging right, correct?

On the slave cylinder, they come with like a plastic zip-tie like thing that clips on the sides and has a cap on the end of the rod. The instructions in the box said to leave that on, is that right?

Thank you.

If you could take a look at the question in the quote above, that would be great too. No one seems to know what I'm talking about but if you had to take the tranny down three times, maybe you will.