I was changing my wheels back after a day at the track and one of my lugs was unwilling to back off so I had to apply force . I was only using a 2 foot breaker bar but the freakin' thing snapped clean off.

This is a brand new Strange rear end, less than 1,000 miles and 2 passes at the track. At least these lugs look very easy to replace as they are bolts and, although I haven't removed it yet, it looks like I just need to back the broken stud out from the back side and run a new one in there.

My question(s) are:
1. has this happened to anyone else with these studs?
2. Are they grade 8 bolts? If so, man am I strong ;-)
3. I know they are the same as OEM lugs (12.5 meteric) but do I need to get replacements from Strange or can I pick up a bolt anywhere?

TIA

 

You just unbolt them from the back. From my experience, you need to pull the axle out an inch or so to get the bolt out the back. My Strange came with 2" long 12mm studs, and I never had a problem with them. I always tighten the lugnuts with a torque wrench. I also use anti-sieze on the studs.

When I added Weld Pro-Stars, I needed longer studs, so I got a set of Moroso high strength 3" long 1/2-20 studs. The Strange axle flanges have 10 bolt holes in them... 5 for the 12mm studs and 5 for 1/2" studs.

When you install the new stud, use some thread locker on it, and torque it as tight as you can.... otherwise they tend to back out.

 

Now that's Strange. (pun intended). Normally wheel nuts should be installed without any lube, anti seize, or thread locker. The correct torque is supposed to stretch the stud within it's elastic limit to apply the correct clamping force. The nuts shouldn't loosen. If they do either the clamping load is low and the nuts back off or it's too high and the studs are yielding (permanently stretching) which also lowers the clamping load. Does Strange recommend putting stuff on the threads?

Be very careful about overtightening. Yielding a stud causes a weak spot. That's where they will fail, and sometimes not just when you are wrenching on them.

My $.02

 

The nuts don't loosen. The thread-in studs loosen in the axle flange. That's where you put the thread locker.

The friction between the nut and the stud causes the threaded-in stud to back out of the axle flange when you screw on the nuts. Been a problem with all the thread-in studs I've used, at least if you don't put locker on them and torque them solidly against the flange. Locker on the stud-to-hub flange.... not on the nut-to-lug.

Using anti-sieze will alter friction and the corresponding torque readings, but it doesn't prevent you from applying the proper clamping force. Specs on the Weld "mag-style extra long shank" lugs, with washer is only 60 lb-ft.