I have a FLP built Stage IV 4L60E trans. I was at the track today, and didn't have the best of luck.

For some reason, the trans didn't shift out of 2nd, but instead bounced of the rev limiter. That caused a little nitrous backfire that blew my CAI and elbow/MAF off, but I got that all back together. Here's the big problem.

When I went to leave the track, I found out that the 1-2 shift is very slow and slips a lot. It will shift, but it takes about 2 or 3 seconds and slips while it shifts. If I take my foot off the gas pedal and force the upshift, it shifts, and then I can drive it normally. I can drive the car normally and it feels fine except for the 1-2 shift.

Any ideaas what's wrong? I have a feeling it's either the shift band or the clutch pack.

 

Why speculate? It's gotta come out and apart. Then you will know.

Good luck.

Rich

 

I'd say the band is burned or broken, also the 3/4 clutch may be toast since the tranny would not shift to 3rd gear.

Or the ECM was not commanding the 3rd gear shift

 

Because if it's something as simple as a bad shift solenoid or a servo, there's no need to pull it out and apart Thanks for the opinion Crosley. I drove it today and figured a few things out about it.


At WOT, from a stop it will bounce off the rev limiter a little bit in 1st gear, but will eventually shift to 2nd, although the shift is a little soft, maybe because of the rev limiter, I dunno.

If I drive it normally and let it shift into second, it shifts very softly, and slips for about 2 seconds while the rpm drop, then all of a sudden it snaps into gear kinda firm like, but not real hard.

If I accelerate slowly through 2nd then go WOT, it downshifts to 1st when it shouldn't.

If I put the shifter in 2nd, all it does is slip.

 

if the band was broken completely you wouldnt get second at all.

 

Nobody else has any ideas or opinions?

 

I drove the car a little more, and I realized that my problem is that I have no 2nd gear.

I've also been reading some tech manuals for 4L60E's, and I think I have an idea of what is wrong. Now, bear with me because I really have no experience with trannies other than installing my shift kit 6 years ago.

There is only one servo, and only one band, correct? If I read the tech manuals correctly, there is also only one clutch pack for all forward gears. Now, the servo is what controls the band in 2nd and 4th, correct? Inside the servo is two pistons...one for 2nd, and one for 4th. The only thing I can think of that would affect only 2nd gear would be the 2nd gear band apply piston in the servo? Does this sound right to anybody?

If I am correct, then I may just take the trans and have the servo replaced, and have the clutches and band freshened up while it's there. Make any sense?

 

Ttt

 

Anyone? Bueller...Bueller?

 

I have one idea for you. Replace the filter and make sure it is seated correctly. I had similar problems where it wouldnt shift to 2nd (hitting the limiter) and it slipped like an SOB. Turned out the filter wasnt fully seated.

 

Let's start here. What does the fluid look/smell like? If it's black or brown it's a definite sign of trouble. If it smells burnt, it's a sign of trouble.
Any SES lights? A faulty soleniod will usually throw a code, but you should have a datastream ran with a scanner to be sure. A scanner will pull codes and tell you if the transmission is getting the right commands from the PCM.
VERY RARELY does a 60E have a problem with the servo itself. Who's shift kit did you use? If it was a Trans-Go, consider yourself one of the lucky ones it lasted as long as it did before frying the 2-4 band.
The 2-4 band is a weak point in the 60E. In all my racing transmissions I use an Alto "wide" red lined band. The band is around 1/4" wider than a stock band. What's more important is it has a reinforced band anchor, which are prone to ripping out in stock bands. Band apply and clearance is very important in 60E's. This is why I ONLY use a billet 2nd servo in all my race transmissions.

My educated guess is that you've got a burnt 2-4 band and a set of burnt
3-4 clutches. Hydramatics idea of using "load release" springs in the 3-4 clutch packs will accelerate ALL 3-4 clutch packs burning up. You've got to know how and what parts to use in a racing 3-4 clutch pack, also. The factory set up simply won't cut it for long.

Take it for what it's worth...I've been building racing transmissions for 14 years, and I've got 60E's bumping the 10 second zone.

Frank
Cahall Performance Transmissions

 

Sorry, I didn't see this post until now.

The fluid is nice and pink still, and doesn't smell bad at all. I never got any SES lights.

The trans got a B&M Transpak about 6 years ago, but was built by FLP into a Stage IV about a year and a half ago. It has pretty much all the internal upgrades you can do.

If I go from a stop, it won't shift into 2nd, but if I take my foot off the throttle, it will go into 3rd. If I'm cruising less than 60 and go WOT, it won't go into 2nd, instead it will hit the rev limiter. Otherwise, it's fine.

A couple times now, I will pull away from a stop, and it will go into 2nd. The shift is slow and weak the first time, then for awhile it is crisp and fast. It even downshifts into 2nd and feels great. Then it will slip a slow weak shift in again, and then go back to no 2nd.

I'm thinking that it's a bad shift solenoid, but I'm far from an expert. Whatcha think now?

 

see if it slips in reverse under a heavy load, if no slipping then ...it sounds like a front drive clutch pack

 

You must have missed that this post is almost 8 months old

I have since pulled the trans out and stuck a stocker in until I get the broken FLP trans fixed.

Thanks for the info though.