the street twin is the only choice in my book. and Rich, Red is still around! their customer service is second to none and they support the customers in a big way!

good choice on clutch!

 

Well this is definately a plus to hear! Im just worried about the new ones as I see people with problems purchased theirs recently...

 

i didn't know there were problems? then again it is not like i have time to search for things like that, I have sold a couple of twins from our shop and both are working flawlessly!

 

Well, I dont know if anyone is still looking into this thread, but the clutch is well broken in now and I am used to it... clamps great, very streetable, all around great investment...

It clamped sooo good that I blew out my stock 10 bolt (I knew the day was coming)... at least it was against another camaro (68 z28 w/ a 454 BB and stickeys) lol

 

How's the drivability?

 

phenomenal driveability. My car is a daily driver, and it is fine for daily use...
the clutch pedal (adjustable) is a little stiffer than regular. Easy to get used to though.

 

The street twin I drove had about a 1/4 of an inch between the clutch disengage, and engage. It was a royal PITA to drive around town in. On the plus side though, when you wanted to race, it was like an on/off switch.

 

If installed correctly, they drive fine after a few hundred miles. The engagement range is short though, so it takes a little finese to drive.

I guess you aren't a finese kind of guy?

Rich

 

Yeah, having just driven in a street twin clutch car once, vs my SPEC stage III (which drives nicely on the street) that I am used to, I didn't really care for it.

I'm sure if I had gotten to drive it more often, I would have required more "finese"

 

If you ever make more power than the spec iii can handle, specs iv and v are there and I hear the spec v is a biotch to handle on the street... plenty of options, but true, the mcleod did take some getting used to

 

My power level probably would call for a SPEC stage IV or greater. However since I only track the car less than a half dozen times a year, and will probably have slicks on it at the track 3 of those 6 times, and all the rest I wll be spinning with DR's, I think my stage III should hold up.

 

OMG. i almost spit out my coffee when I read this.

 

lmao! I laughed sooo hard when i first read it too. LOL!

 

Somehow I noticed this again…, and it’s been a while and I have to car on the road again.

COD: the splines on one of the clutch disks tore out. Not the hub center like I’ve seen before or other related stuff, the actual splines tore out on _one_ of the clutch disks and not the other.


I’ve never that kind of failure. All the noise metal trash was the splines munching on the splines on the input shaft and everything slipping/grinding causing massive heat, and then I suppose when it finally would grab that was the whole assembly, both disks, floater, pressure plate… all getting together and finally grabbing the “good” remaining disk (I say “good” because that one had signs of the splines wollowing out also, but they were still complete and hadn’t damaged that part of the input shaft yet).
(it’s hard to see)

I’m not sure what the binding once it was engaged was, unless it was the roughed up splines not allowing the disks to slide enough on the shaft to disengage completely.

FWIW, it was very obviously a metalergy problem with the hub on the shaft, since even with damage to that extent, it barely messed up the input shaft, and only the hub that totally tore out did, the splines where the other engaged were still fine:

(you could see shiny spots where the front disk engaged on the splines, but they are not actually worn, at least not a measurable amount).

Oh, and to add insult to injury, this is one of the older setups where you would rebuild the slave with a smaller sleeve/piston to get more travel to work the larger stack of moving parts… McLeod eventually did something different because almost everyone apparently ended up with leaking seals when they rebuilt it. Well, my seals were fine but I found that the McLeod sleeve rusted out and was leaking into the bottom of the housing (must have just happened because I didn’t notice it in the reservoir yet, but when I went to mess with it the boot around the end of the slave was FULL of fluid).

So far Mcleod has been cool about it since the rest of the story is I got _fed up_ with breaking **** on this car about the time that I put this clutch in and went from making a couple of hundred passes a year to almost none (I think I do have 1 or 2 passes on it), and finally parked the car for 4 years and didn’t drive it at all). The end result is that this thing hasn’t been beat on at all and has almost no miles on it. It took a while to find someone at McLeod that had a clue what I was talking about, but when I did he agreed that there is no way in hell that it should have failed that way and to send it back and he’ll rebuild it, replace/upgrade all the bad parts and send me back a complete “new” assembly. They’ve had the clutch for a week so far and I haven’t gotten any calls or emails back, so I don’t know what’s going on at this point, but I’m not overly surprised since it took over 2 months of this before I got anywhere with it before.

Hopefully I’ll know soon. In the mean time I fixed everything and slapped a center force DF clutch in it.

 

BTW, for those of you bitching about driveability… I agree 100% about the aluminum flywheel street twin. Between the light weight flywheel and unsprung hubs it’s not even a question of finesse, driving it on the street, it just has a harsh engagement doesn’t play nice. _Everyone_ when they got in my car the first time stalled it right off, there is no real gentle, stock type rolling off with light throttle with it.

The heavier steel flywheel covers most of this up and is MUCH more streetable.

FWIW, I mentioned it to a couple of people at McLeod, and I got the response “yea, I don’t know why we call the aluminum flywheel version the “street” twin.