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Best Clutch for 700+ HP

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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 04:30 PM
  #16  
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Re: Best Clutch for 700+ HP

If the street twin had a vagina, I would not only attempt to procreate with it, but I would ask for it's pressure plate in marriage.
Old Oct 18, 2006 | 12:16 AM
  #17  
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Re: Best Clutch for 700+ HP

Originally Posted by WS6 TA
Well, my street twin just blew up yesterday… after not quite 6K miles, and almost no abuse (before that I got 28K miles out of a stocker + a lot of dragstrip passes and spray)
Have you performed an autopsy to try to see what COD was?
Old Oct 18, 2006 | 04:15 AM
  #18  
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Re: Best Clutch for 700+ HP

Originally Posted by danhr
If the street twin had a vagina, I would not only attempt to procreate with it, but I would ask for it's pressure plate in marriage.

LOL
Old Oct 18, 2006 | 04:28 AM
  #19  
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Re: Best Clutch for 700+ HP

If your staying with the standard LT1 pull style PP and LT1 bellhousing, The Street Twin wins hands down. If you're launching hard at the track, you would be well advised to move to a blow proof bell housing and step to a 11" clutch disk and long finger style PP. That's not a cheap conversion but it can be done (see sig). I tend to value my tootsies so I made the move even though my power level is a bit more wimpy. In any case, if you're bracket racing weekly and dumping at 5500 rpm you'll kill the disk in one season no matter what combination you use.

Steve
Old Oct 18, 2006 | 09:45 PM
  #20  
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Unhappy Re: Best Clutch for 700+ HP

I ordered a mcleod today... now I am brok again
Old Oct 19, 2006 | 02:58 AM
  #21  
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Re: Best Clutch for 700+ HP

Originally Posted by Dave '97 Z28 M6
Have you performed an autopsy to try to see what COD was?
Not yet. I was pretty much disgusted with it by the time I got it home, it still “worked” enough that I was able to pull it behind the tow truck to get it loaded, but it wouldn’t disengage to unload it, so I just tied a tow strap to it and pulled it into a parking space in front of the house with the truck and left it there. I’ll mess with the 4L80e that I’m building for my 3rd gen or tinker with the truck for a while, don’t really want to know.

I did, some time during the 7 r & r’s that I did originally installing it (McLeod sent me 2 bad TOB’s, a messed up PP, a messed up floater and imbalanced parts… it got really old), cut the part of the dust shield so it can be removed without touching the starter or anything else, and judging from the shrapnel and the way it’s acting I’m guessing that one of the clutch hubs or the floater came apart, but I’m pretty sure something is jambed in the PP fingers judging from the noise it’s making.
Old Oct 29, 2006 | 02:54 PM
  #22  
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Cool Mcleod is on

Wow... I can already see/ feel the difference and the clamping power over the stock clutch. It is gonna take some time to get used to though... hard for me to feather the clutch so far...practice makes perfect...

**My left calf is gonna be huge**
Old Oct 29, 2006 | 09:55 PM
  #23  
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As the ST breaks in it will be a lot less grabby. The pedal effort is pretty light considering the amount of power the clutch can handle.
Old Nov 12, 2006 | 10:10 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by WS6 TA
McLeod sent me 2 bad TOB’s, a messed up PP, a messed up floater and imbalanced parts… it got really old making.
I got a dud street twin 2 months ago and I encountered the same issues. The rotating assembly was 16 grams out of balance out of the box. After 3 trany drops, the latest TODAY, I'm sending it back. Fortunately they are standing behind their product. Just curious did you order the zero balanced flywheel? I did. FYI...Mcleod was recently bought out by...ARP (i think). I hope its not a sign of thinks to come.

I'm going back to my stock flywheel and a Spec IV for now. The Spec III held up fine for 20K before the blower. But 4,400lbs and 516rwtq, a twin disk would be preferred.
Old Nov 13, 2006 | 02:10 AM
  #25  
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B&M bpught out McLeod. I am guessing that without having the guy there whose name is on the product it will just become another "profit center". Too bad, the really great aftermarket companies are the ones where the founder is in charge and takes personal pride in the product. It's great when you can call up and talk to "the man". McLeod used to be like that. I talked to McLeod (himself) a couple of times and got great information and service.

Rich
Old Nov 13, 2006 | 09:56 PM
  #26  
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hmm, so am I hearing that the street twin is no longer the way to go?? if not, what is next in line?
Old Nov 13, 2006 | 09:59 PM
  #27  
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It's still the best choice for a hi-po LT1.

Rich
Old Nov 14, 2006 | 07:01 AM
  #28  
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I would not have purchased the Street Twin in the first place if I didn't think it was the best solution out there. I will eventually try it again and hope for better results. I just really miss driving my car and I know my old setup works.
Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:10 AM
  #29  
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hmm, by hi powered, what kind of numbers are we talkin about here? Mine put down 422 rwhp and 420rwtq, but that soon should be bumped up a bit after I put on the twin 58TB and finally finish dyno tuning it... plus Im gettin the dana 60 rear this winter, my poor stocker is going to hell fast, along with the stock 6-speed. The only good synchro is 6th, as it doesn't get used much!
Old Nov 14, 2006 | 10:36 AM
  #30  
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Taner is closing in on 8's and launches at ~5000RPM. AFAIK, he's still running a ST.



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