Best Clutch for 700+ HP
Re: Best Clutch for 700+ HP
If your staying with the standard LT1 pull style PP and LT1 bellhousing, The Street Twin wins hands down. If you're launching hard at the track, you would be well advised to move to a blow proof bell housing and step to a 11" clutch disk and long finger style PP. That's not a cheap conversion but it can be done (see sig). I tend to value my tootsies so I made the move even though my power level is a bit more wimpy. In any case, if you're bracket racing weekly and dumping at 5500 rpm you'll kill the disk in one season no matter what combination you use.
Steve
Steve
Re: Best Clutch for 700+ HP
Not yet. I was pretty much disgusted with it by the time I got it home, it still “worked” enough that I was able to pull it behind the tow truck to get it loaded, but it wouldn’t disengage to unload it, so I just tied a tow strap to it and pulled it into a parking space in front of the house with the truck and left it there. I’ll mess with the 4L80e that I’m building for my 3rd gen or tinker with the truck for a while, don’t really want to know.
I did, some time during the 7 r & r’s that I did originally installing it (McLeod sent me 2 bad TOB’s, a messed up PP, a messed up floater and imbalanced parts… it got really old), cut the part of the dust shield so it can be removed without touching the starter or anything else, and judging from the shrapnel and the way it’s acting I’m guessing that one of the clutch hubs or the floater came apart, but I’m pretty sure something is jambed in the PP fingers judging from the noise it’s making.
I did, some time during the 7 r & r’s that I did originally installing it (McLeod sent me 2 bad TOB’s, a messed up PP, a messed up floater and imbalanced parts… it got really old), cut the part of the dust shield so it can be removed without touching the starter or anything else, and judging from the shrapnel and the way it’s acting I’m guessing that one of the clutch hubs or the floater came apart, but I’m pretty sure something is jambed in the PP fingers judging from the noise it’s making.
Wow... I can already see/ feel the difference and the clamping power over the stock clutch. It is gonna take some time to get used to though... hard for me to feather the clutch so far...practice makes perfect...
**My left calf is gonna be huge**
**My left calf is gonna be huge**
I'm going back to my stock flywheel and a Spec IV for now. The Spec III held up fine for 20K before the blower. But 4,400lbs and 516rwtq, a twin disk would be preferred.
B&M bpught out McLeod. I am guessing that without having the guy there whose name is on the product it will just become another "profit center". Too bad, the really great aftermarket companies are the ones where the founder is in charge and takes personal pride in the product. It's great when you can call up and talk to "the man". McLeod used to be like that. I talked to McLeod (himself) a couple of times and got great information and service.
Rich
Rich
I would not have purchased the Street Twin in the first place if I didn't think it was the best solution out there. I will eventually try it again and hope for better results. I just really miss driving my car and I know my old setup works.
hmm, by hi powered, what kind of numbers are we talkin about here? Mine put down 422 rwhp and 420rwtq, but that soon should be bumped up a bit after I put on the twin 58TB and finally finish dyno tuning it... plus Im gettin the dana 60 rear this winter, my poor stocker is going to hell fast, along with the stock 6-speed. The only good synchro is 6th, as it doesn't get used much!


