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aluminum driveshaft

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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 08:39 PM
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aluminum driveshaft

I have a 1LE aluminum driveshaft left over from my IROC that I'm not using...upgraded to a stronger unit in that car and have a stock steel driveshaft in my M6 '94 Z. The driveshaft has new spicer u-joints and I was wondering how strong these units are. Anyone know if it's a good idea to use it? I drive this car daily and would hate to toss a driveshaft 400 miles from home.
Old Mar 14, 2004 | 08:23 PM
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I've been running an LPE Aluminum driveshaft (which is probably a 1LE) since 1995 with the original U-joints with no problems...and I make 420rwhp...durability with this unit has never been a problem. With the aluminum you drop rotational mass on the driveline and every little bit helps...
--Alan
Old Mar 15, 2004 | 11:04 AM
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The alum shaft is a wise choice, I've got a spicer 3 inch alum shaft, its the best thing i did besides subframes
Old Mar 15, 2004 | 02:31 PM
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Forgot to mention that this is a 1LE shaft out of an '88 IROC 1LE car...so it's the same length but a different diameter without the dampening ring. I've never heard of anyone running a thirdgen shaft, which is why I'm asking...how do the thirdgen aluminum driveshafts compare to the fourth?
Old Mar 15, 2004 | 10:59 PM
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Originally posted by ABA383
I've been running an LPE Aluminum driveshaft (which is probably a 1LE)
My LPE ds is 3.5"
1LE is 2.75" (correct me if I'm wrong)
Old Mar 15, 2004 | 11:14 PM
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Originally posted by Bud M
My LPE ds is 3.5"
1LE is 2.75" (correct me if I'm wrong)
I second this.

-Dustin-
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 09:16 AM
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It will hold up just fine as long as you dont try to do any 5000 rpm clutch dumps with et streets, a 9" and a street twin.
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 02:08 PM
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My bad...mine's 3.5", too...My excuse is that its been 9 years since I've paid much attention to it....guess thats a good thing..
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 04:00 PM
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Good...mine's the 2.75" driveshaft, I wish I had a 3.5 aluminum one...but this one will do. It's fairly heavy for aluminum but not as heavy as a steel shaft. I'll put it in, probably just as strong as the steel one that's in there now especially since the steel one I have now has a u-joint going out)
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 09:09 PM
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Originally posted by Bersaglieri
I second this.

-Dustin-
I third this. My LPE is 3.5"
Definately not the same animal.
Old Mar 17, 2004 | 02:33 AM
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What about the carbon ones? I have seen those for sale everywhere.
Old Mar 17, 2004 | 03:56 AM
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Originally posted by BiGGinZ
What about the carbon ones? I have seen those for sale everywhere.
Avoid "consumer grade" CF driveshafts. They have a bad rep. Aluminum is the way to go for a low to moderate hp setup. If you are hi-po, get a good chrome-moly shaft, especially if you use sticky tires and have an M6 or use a transbrake. Good places for steel shafts that I can recommend are Dynotech and Denny's. Denny's also has the nicest Al shaft I have seen. The shaft Lingenfelter sells is also nice. I used one for a year and a half with no problems (before I went really hi-po).

Rich Krause
Old Mar 17, 2004 | 02:35 PM
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What would you say the limit of the smaller 2.75" shaft is? I dont want to be pushing the limit, but I dont plan on any sticky tires or anything. Just a street driven M6 with heads and cc306. I drive to south FL often but I do tend to be aggressive on the gas sometimes so I dont want to be left in the cold with a shriveled shaft
Old Mar 17, 2004 | 03:05 PM
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Originally posted by dhirocz
What would you say the limit of the smaller 2.75" shaft is? I dont want to be pushing the limit, but I dont plan on any sticky tires or anything. Just a street driven M6 with heads and cc306. I drive to south FL often but I do tend to be aggressive on the gas sometimes so I dont want to be left in the cold with a shriveled shaft
I think you will be fine with street tires.

Rich Krause
Old Mar 17, 2004 | 03:40 PM
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When should I consider getting a drive shaft? I am looking to make around 350 or so rwhp, should I even get one? If so when? This is a ways away but I am trying to plan my mods in order. Thanks.



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