Before the pedal hit the floor, maybe slightly less. Yeah I know, thats why I didnt think removing the 25/1000 shim behind the flywheel would make much of a difference! I really think if the clutch is releasing ok my best bet is to just reduce the pedal travel with the mod I found. Plus I just picked up the parts to do it this afternoon for under a buck.

If u want a quick fix without finding the real problem, just pull the fork out, look for the area that was scraping, and grind it back 1/4". That will fix the scraping.

Yeah that was my first thought when I realized it was hitting. I didnt want to hack up the realease fork though not knowing why it was hitting like that. I still think this is all from the t/o bearing, I wish I could see the two together to know for sure.

Just an update to my situation for anyone interested. I got it working this weekend, I used the method in the link I posted above to shorten the travel on the clutch pedal and it worked great:

http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...ghlight=master

It wasnt easy to thread that master cylinder piston piece though. First you have to remove the master cylinder and the whole clutch hydraulic system, even with that out and using the proper die it didnt thread that well I thought, that rod isnt quite 3/8". I ended up using two 1" coupling nuts and welding one end of them to each piece of the piston rod. Then used about a 2" piece of all thread rod between them. That worked great. Took me one try installing it to get the clutch pedal height correct so the clutch fork didnt grind anymore and still got plenty of release from the clutch. I cancelled the b/o on the LT4 t/o bearing, I still think there must be some difference between the two but I didnt want to wait any longer to find out.

As for the SPEC 4 carbon clutch I really thought it felt pretty smooth. I dont get any chatter pulling out in 1st or backing up in reverse which I was very pleased with and I didnt think it was too grabby either. As for the Moser 9" with a Detroit Locker and a Spohn body mount TA.....its like a sledhammer hitting the back of the car when your on it and shifting hard. I really dont know how anyone can consider a locker streetable. And the sounds it makes taking sharp turns is a whole other story. I'm looking into swapping the locker out for a Powertrax differential this winter. Anyway, I'm glad to say she's finally back up and running again. Looking for some new times with the new setup very soon.

Greg.. SOrry i'm so late.. Glad to hear you got it up and running smoothly.. As for your streetable comment's.. Everyone's idea of what's streetable is a very broad range of thinking.. I have the locker in mine and i love it!.. I know a LSD would be nice.. as i have had one prior to the locker.. but i broke it.. and IMHO i'd rather make a sacrifice and upgrade rather than patch this and that.. Don't like doing thing's twice.. Beside's driving in the snow w/ a locker is more fun..

Steve, I've heard some people say the locker wasnt streetable, I just thought it was the problem on turning. I didnt know how harsh they can be between shifts, that shocked me. If mine were a track only car I wouldnt care about it but I still like to drive it on the street too. I really think I'm going to try the Powertrax and see how it works, I could always go back to the locker if I ever break that. Driving a locker in the snow, now thats funny.

i'm beginning to think i got somthing different then.. Mine don't make any noise!, ain't violent on shift's.. You feel a lil shimmy when you take off.. and its' def. a locker.. oh and it dont make any noise while turning either or clicking .. So idunno.. but it's a Detroit locker..

I have no doubt this thing is a locker, its brutal. Maybe this has just had too much abuse or something, I know the guy I bought it from off the board around here had it in a 94 firebird M6 with somewhere around 600hp and he raced it pretty hard. Oh well, I'll pull it out this winter and take a look at it, either way I want to try something a little less harsh like the powertrax for next year.

I had this happen on a stock style clutch, when you turn the flywheel you need to shim the same amount.

If you have to big of a shim then it rubbs the clutch fork, no sure if this is your problem but just what i know

I just thought i would put my input in. Me and a buddy each did clutched on our cars. We each did the LT1 disk and i used the SLP PP and he used the LT4. They are exactly the same except for the lightening holes and throw out bearing. I think the throw out bearings are the same length. If the pressure plates are the same the bearings would have to be the same if not people using the LT4 in an Fbody would have the same problem you're having. I believe the reason SLP uses the round throw out bearing is its much easier to get the fork on bearing. The LT4 throw out bearing is kind of pain to get the fork on because it has to be turned right for the fork to go on.

Wow, I was just searching for something else and found this thread. It's nice to see someone else from another board using my crazy method and have it work and your right it's not quite 3/8" but it still worked pretty good for me.

Yeah, it would have worked after I threaded it that way but I just thought the threads would have come out better. Maybe I just messed up threading it but it wasnt straight and the threads werent complete so I decided to do the other method I mentioned while it was all apart. Thanks for your guide though, now its on this site too if anyone else has the same problem.

Well since I have a digital camera now, I think I'll just update that link with some pic's. I'am not to sure how to post a pic here otherwise I would, maybe one of you guys could do it for me.